Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I locked up my brakes in the rain the other night, and ever since, my ABS light stays on constantly :(

I checked the fuses under the bonnet but they are fine. Is there another fuse that might cause this? If not, does anyone know where I should look to diagnose the issue??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98695-abs-light-lit-constantly-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

Could be a number of things, one of the wheel speed sensors or the ABS module itself u cant really tell unless u have somthing so you can read the trouble code that its logged.

You could try disconnecting the battery for a while say 15mins so make sure so it clears the memory. then see if it comes back after you reconnect it. because it might be a history code, its happened once and hasnt happened again but its kept the light on to tell u somthing has happened.

Wild guess and say its used somthing in the module it dosnt ususall use that may have stuffed up but i thought abs modules usually do a self test as u first drive off every time the car is started, could be wrong. id think that if the wheel speed sensor was stuffed it wouldntve stuffed up just because the abs was used because the wheel speed sensors are used all the time.

PS: make sure u have all the radio codes and stuff before u disconnect the battery. if ur unit has one.

Edited by Viper1555

I tried disconnecting battery to reset ecu, but it didnt work unfortunately :)

I'll have to get it checked out by a brake specialist i guess. I doubt anyone will know how to check the sensors etc.

Unfortunately I dont know where the ABS module is either?

Thanks for your help Viper - Ill post up some results once I get it checked out.

when you open the bonnet, your standing in front of the car, look to the right you wil see at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side a box with metal lines coming out, that is the abs module, if you dont have that then you dont have abs.

ABS Module should be in booth of car on shelf to the right of the batt etc.

I have read somewhere that you can do diag from the controler much the same as the ecm with the LED or Chk Eng lamp.

I am having an ABS lamp on now, also from locking my wheels in the loose.

I am about to remove my module to see if the diag can be done. will post the results.

FX

ABS is complex.. if u have a fault code.. dnt just clear it.. take it to nissan and get a check done.. check codes..

so u locked up? maybe ur actuator.. check that u didnt damge ur sensors..? sensors should be in the inside or ur driveshafts on the rear from memory.. best to take to nissan and get an intelligent tester onto it.. check ur whole car over for codes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
    • Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.
    • Oh man, at least it sounds they've accepted they stuffed up and not put it back on you...could see some confusion if they asked if it had a hardtop or not, and you've answered truthfully but maybe not answering their real question which is what roof did it have from the factory! Glad your keeping it N/A 2.5
    • Nah, I much prefer colour matched Talking about colour matching stuff, the new/used boot lid turned up, all painted up perfectly......aaaannnndddd, it's for a power retractable hard top, not a soft top.....LOL They are now sending a boot to fit a soft top.....,  whilst frustrating, life is like that sometimes, sometimes you just need to dodge, duck, dip, dive and, ummm, dodge.
×
×
  • Create New...