Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls, i have just bought a car and need some help on mods and compliance. The car is a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t 4door.

These are of the car right now in Japan

7624.jpg

This is a quick chop i what i would like it to look like

4dr3ba.jpg

the mods done in the chop are

Removed Rear Spoiler: whats involved in doing this, cost?

Rims: looking at 5 spoke around 17inch, which are either white or can be painted white. whats involved in painting rims? is it something is shud do or shud i get pro, powder-coat etc etc???

Suspension: i would be looking to lower the car 40mm at the front and 50mm at the rear(going by pictures, will have better look when the car gets here), whats a good cheap option? looking for increased handling aswell as look.

Bonnet trim: i have looked at cutting the little lip on the bonnet that hangs down between the lights. it would then be filled with black mesh. method??

as for Compliance: is it worth doin it myself, whats the cost difference on average? thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98719-just-bought-an-r32/
Share on other sites

This will give you a few ideas about Compliancing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=41327

The beat way to go about rims is to buy white ones or get second hand rims (cause they are cheaper) and get them coated in white enamel, as it sets hard, but I am not too sure about coating Alloy but just ask your local paint shop they should be able to help.

cheers

Chris

yeh thanks, i think i might be covered on the compliance, i have got a quote for around 700 with RWC at a shop. sorry but some of the Qs have already been covered in the NS.com thread.

yeh do u know what size stockies are, 16's?? might get them powdered, or just find some real cheap 17 5spoke alloys and powder them.

I've seen some GTS-T bonnets cut to accommodate a GTR grill, and they've all looked pretty dodgy. If you're keen on the idea, cut the whole inner section out, and weld in a new plate, so it all looks neat. :)

Adrian.

Removed Rear Spoiler: whats involved in doing this, cost?

Depends on how neat you'd want it to look. Very low cost if you just plug up the holes with some silver watertight plastics plug and up to $300 to get the holes welded up and boot resprayed.

Rims: looking at 5 spoke around 17inch, which are either white or can be painted white. whats involved in painting rims? is it something is shud do or shud i get pro, powder-coat etc etc???

I suggest you get them white to start of with and failing that, get a pro to do it. Be warned white multispoke rims require alot of dedication to keep clean.

Suspension: i would be looking to lower the car 40mm at the front and 50mm at the rear(going by pictures, will have better look when the car gets here), whats a good cheap option? looking for increased handling aswell as look.

Get some springs that'll lower the car.

Bonnet trim: i have looked at cutting the little lip on the bonnet that hangs down between the lights. it would then be filled with black mesh. method??

I think you'd be better off getting a GTR bonnet.

Edited by Wink

with the bonnet, i recently done just what you want. cut the lip off with an angel grinder, covered the exposed metal so it wouldnt rust, and cover with a gtr lip piece.

at the jap wreckers here it was $350 for a gtr bonnet which had a dint and huge scratched dint in it.

my $100 gts bonnet in perfect condition with lip grind off works just as well.

pic can be found here

http://members.optusnet.com.au/damage/boos...ll_Sv402956.jpg

with the bonnet, i recently done just what you want. cut the lip off with an angel grinder, covered the exposed metal so it wouldnt rust, and cover with a gtr lip piece.

at the jap wreckers here it was $350 for a gtr bonnet which had a dint and huge scratched dint in it.

my $100 gts bonnet in perfect condition with lip grind off works just as well.

pic can be found here

http://members.optusnet.com.au/damage/boos...ll_Sv402956.jpg

That actually looks pretty good. Can't even tell its a GTSt bonnet

yeh just another quick Q, i was looking at a list of mods recomended by Dr Drift(from ns.com maybe on here aswell) and he rekons to go exhaust and fuel pump (bosch 040) first, and then intercooler after those 2.

just wondering about the fuel pump, he recomended about 400 dollars new, i have seen a few used for round 200, i beleive these pumps also need mounts. and my question is if these pumps dont come with mounts or anything but the pump, what other costs are involved, mounts etc? and will i need to get it put in or can it be done by someone of average maechanical skill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...