33 Gtst - Excessive Inner Wear

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Hey ppls,

About to replace the front tyres on my car, due to them being excessively worn on the inside. This has been a problem since I got my car, so I'm wondering if I can get any tips on settings so I can avoid this in the future.

- Stock suspension, street use

- Whiteline adjustable swaybays (front and back) to be fitted next week

- Front: 17x8, Dunlop FM901s 235/45ZR17

- Rear: 17x9, Potenza GIII 255/40ZR17

Most recent alignment settings (Gordon Leven)

Rear Camber L -1'14"

Rear Camber R -0'47"

Rear Toe L +1.9mm

Rear Toe R -1.1mm

Front Castor L +6'53"

Front Castor R +6'26"

Front Camber L -1'21"

Front Camber R -1'11"

Front Toe L +0.7mm

Front Toe R +0.7mm

[Sydneykid]

Hey ppls,

About to replace the front tyres on my car, due to them being excessively worn on the inside. This has been a problem since I got my car, so I'm wondering if I can get any tips on settings so I can avoid this in the future.

- Stock suspension, street use

- Whiteline adjustable swaybays (front and back) to be fitted next week

- Front: 17x8, Dunlop FM901s 235/45ZR17

- Rear: 17x9, Potenza GIII 255/40ZR17

Most recent alignment settings (Gordon Leven)

Rear Camber L -1'14"

Rear Camber R -0'47"

Rear Toe L +1.9mm

Rear Toe R -1.1mm

Front Castor L +6'53"

Front Castor R +6'26"

Front Camber L -1'21"

Front Camber R -1'11"

Front Toe L +0.7mm

Front Toe R +0.7mm

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Front tyres worn on the inside is usually either toe or camber, toe looks OK at 0.7 mm each side. So must be camber, I don't usually go over 1 degree on a road car. But 1.2 degrees static is hardly excessive, do you do a lot of freeway/highway driving?

Just to complete the picture, what are the heights on all 4 corner, centre of wheel to guard? It maybe a dynamic camber problem, not just a static one.

You really should do some adjusting of the rear camber, 1.1 on one side and 0.47 on the other is not so good. The standard adjusters should help in that regard. The rear toe needs correcting as well, has the HICAS been centred lately?

cheers

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Approx 365mm on all corners...

Yeah, my car sees a lot of highway driving, and I'm not sure when HICAS was centred last. - what does that involve?

[predator]

i had the same problem.. was wholy caster rods.. the more you corner hard, the worse the wear. Replaced bushes, been fine ever since.

Check the bushes if you haven't already. Look for cracks in the rubber, or fluid leaking out.

[noise]

how much are new bushes?

[Sydneykid]

how much are new bushes?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Whiteline adjustable radius rod bushes are $115 delivered on the Group Buy.

cheers

[noise]

I am in an annoying situation with my suspension.

At the moment until I get my driveway fixed I have my rear suspension higher up then my front. (HKS adjustable) I feel like it would be pointless to get a camber kit or anything else till i lower the back to match the front.

Here are the numbers from a wheel and steering alignment done recently.

Rear Axle

Camber

before

Left before -1’21” after -1’24”

Right before -2’12” after -2’13”

Toe

Left before +6.5mm after +0.5mm

Right before +1.2mm after +0.3mm

Castor

Left before +6’33” after +6’33”

Right before +6’48” after +6’48”

Front Axle

Camber

Left before -1’40” after -1’11”

Right before -2’28” after -2’57”

Toe

Left before +7.68mm after +0.9mm

Right before – 10.5mm after +0.8mm

not sure new bushes or camber kit would help till I get my suspension how i want it?

[Sydneykid]

I am in an annoying situation with my suspension.

At the moment until I get my driveway fixed I have my rear suspension higher up then my front. (HKS adjustable) I feel like it would be pointless to get a camber kit or anything else till i lower the back to match the front.

Here are the numbers from a wheel and steering alignment done recently.

Rear Axle

Camber

before

Left before -1’21” after -1’24”

Right before -2’12” after -2’13”

Toe

Left before +6.5mm after +0.5mm

Right before +1.2mm after +0.3mm

Castor

Left before +6’33” after +6’33”

Right before +6’48” after +6’48”

Front Axle

Camber

Left before -1’40” after -1’11”

Right before -2’28” after -2’57”

Toe

Left before +7.68mm after +0.9mm

Right before – 10.5mm after +0.8mm

not sure new bushes or camber kit would help till I get my suspension how i want it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well.........if it has 3 degrees of negative camber on the front (without any camber adjustment) then it's too low for decent handling, braking or traction. You have raised the back and it has over 2 degrees negative, that's also/still too low for decent geometry, traction, drive shaft angle and acceleration.

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements? If much less than 350mm front and 340 mm rear then you really need to address that issue before you get into alignment products.

cheers

[noise]

just to make it clear... I raised the bacck suspension long before I had the alignment done. The before is before the alignment the after is what settings and changes the aligner made.

he told me I had some really strange settings. strange = not good ?

Edited December 20, 2005 by noise

[Sydneykid]

just to make it clear... I raised the bacck suspension long before I had the alignment done. The before is before the alignment the after is what settings and changes the aligner made.

he told me I had some really strange settings. strange = not good ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yep, when you have them too low the suspension geometry gets very screwed up. The rear camber goes way negative (you have that), even the front camber gets excesive (you have that), the front toes outs (you also had that) and the rear toes in (yep you had that).

What you are seeing only the static readings, the dynamic readings are even worse.

Hence my question about height.

cheers

PS; You shoud see what it does to the driveshaft angles.

Edited December 20, 2005 by Sydneykid

[noise]

sorry to hijack the thread.

sydneykid whats causing all these crazy numbers? because its lowered at the front?

if its all lowerred and I got a camber kit at the front would that fix it?

Edited December 20, 2005 by noise

[Sydneykid]

sorry to hijack the thread.

sydneykid whats causing all these crazy numbers? because its lowered at the front?

if its all lowerred and I got a camber kit at the front would that fix it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I really need the centre of wheel to guard heights on all 4 corners to give a definiitve answer. It's a vital bit of info.

cheers

[noise]

approx 33cm on front and 35 cm on rear from centre of wheel to guard.

[Sydneykid]

approx 33cm on front and 35 cm on rear from centre of wheel to guard.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

330 mm on the front......well that explains the excessive camber.

It really needs to go up 20 mm, to give it some geometry.

Then you can stick the camber bushes in and set it up properly.

350 mm at the rear with that sort of camber would indicate that there must be some worn bushes. Either upper arm (rear camber bushes will fix that) and/or maybe subframe (the rear subframe bushes will fix that). You can then come down 10 mm and still have reasonable geometry there.

These are the bits that you will need;

KCA331 Caster Kit $110.00

KCA348 Front Camber kit $272.00

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00

KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00

Total is over $500 so delivery is free on the Group Buy.

The front and rear toe will have to be adjusted after the bushes are installed and the caster and cambers are set up correctly.

cheers