Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have a S13 Silvia with a RB25det in it. While I am driving the engine will shut down then restart. but if i put my foot on the clutch it won't restart unitll i turn key or kick start it by releasing the clutch. I have changed the crank angle sensor and still does the problem. I unfortunatley cannot check faulty leds on ecu as it has no led and the engine light on dash isn't connected.

Can someone please help me with this problem. Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/
Share on other sites

Are you running the stock RB25DET ECU as well? You might be able to pull the fault codes outta the ECU if that is the case.

I think the only reason it comes back alive if you don't press the clutch is because you're essentially hill-starting it.

What sort of driving are we talking about? Just cruising along and then it stops, or are you gunning it and coming off the throttle really hard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799359
Share on other sites

Are you running the stock RB25DET ECU as well? You might be able to pull the fault codes outta the ECU if that is the case.

I think the only reason it comes back alive if you don't press the clutch is because you're essentially hill-starting it.

What sort of driving are we talking about? Just cruising along and then it stops, or are you gunning it and coming off the throttle really hard?

Just normal driving. when it is kept in higher rpm it doesn't do it. it is running stock ecu. how can the code be pulled of it if there is no leds on the ecu.

thanks for your reply

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799391
Share on other sites

Is it just dropping revs and cutting out as if the idle is too low?

could be the A/F maps all screwed

The engine just dies. you hear the engine purring along happily then the engine just cuts out and goes quiet. like if you turned the key off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799517
Share on other sites

it is only occuring when you come off the accelerator pedal? if so it sounds like atmo bov or incorrect bov setup. check bov and what type do you have? if its an aftermarket unit go back to stock one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799550
Share on other sites

it is only occuring when you come off the accelerator pedal? if so it sounds like atmo bov or incorrect bov setup. check bov and what type do you have? if its an aftermarket unit go back to stock one

it doesn't matter whether the accelerater is going down or going up. The bov is still stock. it mainly happens while i am just cruising along. it has also happened when i have gone to take off sedately. but if the revs are kept up it doesn't happen. it has also happened while the engine was idling. there was no splattering or anything. it just stopped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799605
Share on other sites

how long have u had this conversion in the car 

sounds like its your m.a.f (mass air flow ) sensor  is screwed or when some one did the wiring harness they either didnt hook a sensor up or its a bad connection to one of your sensors

It has been in the car for about over a year now and it has not had a problem up until now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1799989
Share on other sites

By the sounds of things its not sensor related because if it where a loose wire to a sensor or one of the sensor/s itself the ECU would go into a backup mode wether it be limp home or just change to another set of parameters and the car usually still runs.

How I interpreted your post is like it was a straight cut of the ignition as in no cough and splutter then cut. So check your connection to the ecu. Also while the car is idling shake the ecu and the loom and see if anything happens.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98839-engine-shutdown/#findComment-1800568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...