Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey could someone do me a huge favor, i need someone with an r33 to remove there arial and tell me what colour wires go where on the plug. You will need to open the boot and remove the left hand garnish and then remove the 2 bolts holding the arial in, then you will need a pair of pionty nose pliers to remove the locking nut from the top of the arial (where it comes out from), then the whole arial unit will be able to be pulled out. I have a picture attached with a drawing of the back of the plug with numbers on it, if someone could tell me what colour wires they have going to each number it would be a great help..

post-229-1134912556.jpg

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98878-arial-plug/
Share on other sites

I note that you have posted looking for a replacement aerial.

I would not mind looking around in the "wheel well" but would baulk at taking the aerial out.

Is it totally necessary to remove it from the body ?

Do you still want someone to try and identify the pinouts ?

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98878-arial-plug/#findComment-1810574
Share on other sites

Yes i still would like to know what colour wires go where in the plug.

The arial unit needs to be removed to get to the plug, its very very simple to remove, anyone could do it even if they arnt very mechanicaly minded ..

Behind the left trim in the boot is 2 10mm bolts that need to be removed and the locking nut at the tip of the arial and the whole unit will come out without any trouble, it will also go back in just as easy ..

I hope you can check your plug for me, either way if you want a copy of the nissan fast cds i will be happy to send you a copy wether you check it or not. Im all for sharing ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98878-arial-plug/#findComment-1811186
Share on other sites

I just tried to get my arial out to get a copy of the plug for you... its not as easy as you think.

I gave up as i ended up putting a dent in my rear 1/4 panel... which plug are you after exactly? cause none of mine looked to have any plugs attached.. it was more a direct connection to the arial. I dont use mine anyway, just burn a mp3 cd or something. fcuk the radio.

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98878-arial-plug/#findComment-1812517
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.
    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
×
×
  • Create New...