Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't believe they will destroy the coil packs, but if you have standard coils irridium plugs will make them work harder. For the best performance with these plugs you probably need a set of split-fire coils and have your plugs gapped correctly. i.e. high boost smaller gap around 0.8 to 0.9mm. Standard boost then the 1.1 gap will work ok.

I changed to NGK irridiums about 4 months ago and had nothing but trouble, misfiring, hesitation in the mid rev range. The smaller gap solved the misfiring but the car just never reved the way it used to. This is because my standard coil packs couldn't handle the irridium plugs.

I recently changed my irridiums to NGK copper ®, gapped them at 0.9mm and the car runs like a dream. They will only last about 20-30k depending on how you drive, but for $20.00 for a set of 6 who's complaining.

If you feel that you need the better plug, best to stick with NGK platium. The only problem is they come pre-gapped so you need to order them with your preferred gap.

Paul.

umm, okay. So, should I be overly concerned about this? Does damage usually occur within weeks, or do I have a few months?

Its not really damage that occurs, it's just that they don't work as well. Especially if the coil packs are getting older this doesn't help. Eventually of course a coil pack will die. If you stick with irridums then use splitfire coils, around $800.00.

Paul.

in a good way thats good to know..when I bought my skyline almost 3 months ago, my mate made me buy the iridium plugs. Spend a fortune, then figured it was too much hassle to change them, on account of the ornament and piping covering up the plugs and coils..so they've just been sitting there in my garage for the last 3 months...

Hey can someone please explain why you guys are making the spark smaller??? I dont understand, really it doesnt make sence, well not for me anyway.

I thought the bigger the spark the better the bang?

also matty_tonkin Super cheap sell them, $20 for a set of 6

Edited by 7yphon

The deal with closing the gap is that with running higher boost the forced air can blow the spark out.

Which causes the car to go and sound like a heap of crap when it hits full boost.

I bought Iridium 0.8's for my car when it came over because even though running factory boost levels it wouldn't handle it when it hit around 5000rpm.

And plugs that were in it were Iridium 1.1's

but ive heard that compared to japan our premium fuel quality would be there everyday cheap stuff.

Thats what i know anyway, hope it helps. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...