My Hr30 Project

[stagefumer11]

oo that black one looks so gangsta

[works 510]

NOTE: black sedan aint mine and is just a example pic

[works 510]

Updates, Money being spent

s13 rear tein coilovers - $150 (looking for a cheap pair of fronts )

S13 sr20 front brakes + hubs and nuckles - $80

Saas seat $101.51 ( blue of all colours, sort of matches a red interior )

Other News!

- turbo has done a oil seal, oil in intake.

-Rear panels still havn't been fixed

- Got to go pick up a free l26 motor

That is about it, lol

Cheers!

[Matty T]

s13 rear tein coilovers - $150 (looking for a cheap pair of fronts )

S13 sr20 front brakes + hubs and nuckles - $80

Where did you get the S13 gear from?

[works 510]

Coilovers came from a mates r31 after he got himself a new set and hubs and stuff were from ebay

[Ghostrider]

What oil filter and fuel filter should i use? Aus spec r30 ones?

Cheers!

This is an interesting question, as my L20ET has a Ryco Z9 on it now, the L28 I recently acquired has an Z170, yet in past days L24E's had Z145A, so I guess you can use them all, as all L series 6 cylinder blocks are the same dimensionally.

Cheers,

D

[stagefumer11]

What oil filter and fuel filter should i use? Aus spec r30 ones?

Cheers!

This is an interesting question, as my L20ET has a Ryco Z9 on it now, the L28 I recently acquired has an Z170, yet in past days L24E's had Z145A, so I guess you can use them all, as all L series 6 cylinder blocks are the same dimensionally.

Cheers,

D

Yup you can use. z9,z442,z101,z170,z145. All the same threads and seal size. The z442 is good for limited room area's Hence why it is used on rb25 neo's

[works 510]

I just used a r30 oil filter one i think. Also r30 fuel filter than doesn't fit in the dodgey fuel filter holder... nothing zip ties cant fix.

Also got some front coilovers coming, $275

[Ghostrider]

I just used a r30 oil filter one i think. Also r30 fuel filter than doesn't fit in the dodgey fuel filter holder... nothing zip ties cant fix.

Also got some front coilovers coming, $275

I'm still happy with my coil overs, I bought them for $1700.00 for all 4 corners, complete with springs & seats. Fronts came with the DR bigger brakes & calipers, so I think I got a good deal at the time.

As for the fuel filter .... try an L28E one ............. p/n 16400-Q0800 as there are a lont of similarities with L28ET & L20ET configurations.

Cheers,

D

[Matty T]

I made my own coilovers. I used Commodore strut tubes as the basis, and put Hills Hoist tube (threaded from top to bottom) over that. They now accept any Commodore insert - 40mm Bilsteins are shown. It is a bit of overkill for the street, but good for my purpose. I also modified the original platforms so that they fit on the adjusters as well, giving me a broad range of spring choices.

Strut with King spring:

Modified factory spring platform:

Cheers,

Matt

Edited April 16, 2006 by Matty T

[stagefumer11]

are you able to take some pics off all the welding spots and everything you have done ? This looks like alot easyer setep to do than trying to fork out the money on s13 gear

[Matty T]

are you able to take some pics off all the welding spots and everything you have done ? This looks like alot easyer setep to do than trying to fork out the money on s13 gear

Easier? It really depends on your point of view (and level of skill, patience, access to machinery, etc...). To some, it is easier to just spend the money on S13 gear and fit it in a weekend. To others, they enjoy making stuff themselves and don't mind the fact that it takes them a couple of weeks (and a couple of skinned knuckles).

Anyway...

I started with a pair of DR30 struts. I went to a wrecker and bought a pair of VB - VP front struts from a wreck ($50). They happened to have a pair of good Koni red adjustables in them (heheh - worth the price alone!).

Next, I cut the Datsun strut tube off 25mm above the stub base. I cut the Commodore tube off right at the stub base (so that the Commodore tube was as long as I could get it), and removed the brake line mount so that the tube was bare. Other people actually split the Commodore stub base open and remove the whole tube, then machine out the Datsun stub base to suit the tube. That produces a neater result, but incurs an additional cost. People like Errol at Datrats (www.datrats.com.au) do it for about $400, IIRC.

I then cut the top of the Commodore tube off (the part that has the inside thread for the gland nut). You can choose your own length here, but it was about 8 cm IIRC.

Now off to the lathe!

The inside diameter of the bottom 25mm of the Commodore tube needs to be machined out by about 1mm so that it slips neatly over the 25mm of Datsun tube you have sticking out of the stub base (got that?). Stick it on and weld it around the base. (Oh, while you are there you can give the tube a slight lean one way or the other to adjust the static camber if you want).

While the lathe is warm, go to your neighbor's yard armed with a hacksaw and cut down their Hill's Hoist (or you can go to your metal centre and get some tube with a 55mm(or whatever the Commodore tube OD is) ID). Anyway, thread the tube from tip to toe.

Now, here's the measuring part: slide the Commodore insert into the newly welded-on tube. You will notice that it sticks out the top some distance. Screw the gland nut (you know, the big nut that holds the insert into the strut) about halfway into the piece that you cut off the top. Now put it on the top of the insert. There will be a gap of about 15mm between the tube pieces. Technically, this is the only part you need to sleeve with the Hill's Hoist tube, but since we are making coilovers, we may as well make them adjustable as much as we want. Mark and measure where you want the sleeve to start and finish. Cut the threaded tube to that length. Slide over and weld.

* The second picture in my post above shows you the weld between the top (gland nut) piece and the top of the Hill's Hoist tube.

* Here is the bottom:

Ah, one thing I should mention - get your adjustable platforms first, so that you can cut the thread in the tube to the same pitch. Places like Heasmans (or Quadrant) sell them on their own.

Some people may be concerned about their strength - they are plenty strong. The tube wall thickness ends up at about 6mm (compared to about 2.5mm for the original one). A bit weighty? Perhaps. Strong? You betcha.

In total, it cost me about $300 to do the lot (including modify the original platforms), which is pretty cost effective. Once you add new 40mm heavy duty Bilsteins ($500) and a set of new King springs ($175), the cost gets nearer that of the S13 gear. The advantage is, though, parts are easily replaced compared to alot of the aftermarket S13 stuff.

Now, does all that sound easy or what?

Edited April 16, 2006 by Matty T

[Ghostrider]

Matty,

That's pretty good, but that's all for fronts only eh!

$300 + $500 + $175 = $975.00 for fronts only, what are you doing on the rear, using stock shocks & spring configuration, or are you modifying the shock tower to become a coil over too!

My JIC's were about 50mm shorter in fitted length than the stock DR30 of the same spec. For the dollars I paid, I think I did very well, they have no leaks, they came complete with brakes, adjustable camber strut tops and the dampening is 4 way adjustable.

I have since found out they cam out of a Bluebird not a DR30 as originally thought, but they fit great, the ride height will be very similar to the black sedan shown earlier in this thread. Maybe for comp days a bit lower.

What I can't understand is this ........ you have done what amounts to quite an exotic modification to your front suspension, yet in another thread, your so concerned about cutting holes in a panel which may breech homoligation regs. Where do these exotic dunnydore/nissan front struts fit into homoligation regs that a hole in the radiator support panel, will not.

Cheers,

D

[Matty T]

What I can't understand is this ........ you have done what amounts to quite an exotic modification to your front suspension, yet in another thread, your so concerned about cutting holes in a panel which may breech homoligation regs. Where do these exotic dunnydore/nissan front struts fit into homoligation regs that a hole in the radiator support panel, will not.

I hear ya Ghostrider. I am only trying to comply to the Badly Worded Book (a.k.a. the CAMS Manual) for Production Rally Cars. Basically, suspension is free, as long as you aren't altering the suspension mounting points on the chassis (certain reinforcing is permitted though). Unfortunately, the radiator support panel is not free. The only modifications that are able to be done is those that necessitate the fitment of homologated items; nothing more. That is why I am concerned about where Mr. Fury's intercooler piping went, but have gone nuts on the struts.

To be honest, if I was doing it again, I would probably make them (like I have done) but base it on the S13 hub.

As for the rears - at this stage, it is nothing more than a new set of Bilsteins and a set of Kings. They aren't adjustable (yet), as the original circlip groove has provided quite adequate ground clearance. But I do have a cunning plan...

[Ghostrider]

Can you get hold of a copy of ZOOM 53, or PM your address and I'll send you the relevent pics, or I can try and get them scanned and put on the site later tonight.

Cheers,

D

[works 510]

Quick question...

Whats the warning light between the oil pressure light and the one with a radiator on it (?), above temp gauge and oil pressure gauge.

[Ghostrider]

lol, it has a v6 badge. thats so retarded...

Hey George,

If I put a V6 or better still a V8 badge on this, would it be similarly retarded?

D.......