Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Any suggestions?

I put the engine in the car and instead of putting the earth wire from the body of the car to the engine like I should have I connected the wire from the body to the positive terminal of the battery. Of course the body was also connected to the negative terminal of the battery at the same time and so the battery started to boil.

Anyway it's all wired up right now (well that part for sure) and now even with a new battery it wont start. The fuel pump primes, the lights on the dash go on but when I turn the key to start there is no sound from the starter motor.

I have tested the starter motor with some alternative wiring and it works fine.

What do you think I've done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98931-car-wont-start-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was expecting electrical burning type smells but didn't notice any.

I just did an ECU test and got 55 which is no errors so the ECU is fine.

I've checked the fuses as far as I can although some of those big ones I'm not sure how you tell. Perhaps a multi meter for continuity?

I did swap a few of them around and it made no difference.

When I connect the battery there is a spark indicating something drawing current straight away. Dunno if it's the alarm or something not wired up right.

I just can't see what I've wired wrong...

What's the

I have tested the starter motor with some alternative wiring and it works fine.

that you've done?

Only thing I can thnk of is the main cable from the battery to the starter (same size as earth cable) isn't connected.

El Bee wins a pat on the back although I figured it out by myself. The plug for the neutral safety switch was only half clicked in. The starter motor now works fine.

However...

The bloody thing still wont start.

I have taken the cam gear cover off and checked that the dots line up with the marks on the plate behind them and it's all fine. I have moved the CAS mm by mm around it's entire range and still it wont start.

I got a few good backfires but now it wont even do that.

Now what?

El Bee wins a pat on the back although I figured it out by myself.  The plug for the neutral safety switch was only half clicked in.  The starter motor now works fine.

However...

The bloody thing still wont start.

I have taken the cam gear cover off and checked that the dots line up with the marks on the plate behind them and it's all fine.  I have moved the CAS mm by mm around it's entire range and still it wont start.

I got a few good backfires but now it wont even do that.

Now what?

did you flush ALL the fuel out of the tank and lines? as ANY old fuel will contaminate the new brew. This same thing happened with "twoogle"

I don't see why old fuel would mean the car won't start?

I'd be thinking to check if any fuel in the lines to the engine.. When I run out of petrol usually takes atleast 10l+ and a lot of priming the pump and hitting the accel to get petrol back into the engine.

edit: also helps if it aint on a hill with the incline tipping the car towards the rear of the car.

I don't see why old fuel would mean the car won't start?

I'd be thinking to check if any fuel in the lines to the engine.. When I run out of petrol usually takes atleast 10l+ and a lot of priming the pump and hitting the accel to get petrol back into the engine.

edit: also helps if it aint on a hill with the incline tipping the car towards the rear of the car.

stale fuel does not combust.....thats why the car wont start....or that is why ours wouldnt. As i said we flushed the tank after we emptied it, (dont forget the lines fuel rail and filter) with fresh fuel and like magic.....the car started.

You may have also burnt out your earth lead....did it not let out a large spark when you connected it to the pos+ terminal?

Edited by DiRTgarage
stale fuel does not combust.....thats why the car wont start....or that is why ours wouldnt. As i said we flushed the tank after we emptied it, (dont forget the lines fuel rail and filter) with fresh fuel and like magic.....the car started.

I see.. that must have been a long time no? I would have thought the few months the car's been off the road it would still be ok? I've had another car sitting for longer than Adam has had his off the road and it was fine.

There wasn't much of a spark when I had my wiring mixup.

I was using the old fuel. New fuel now in. It thought about starting. I'll get some new plugs tomorrow.

Anyone know what heat range etc I need?

cc - sounds like you run out of petrol a lot... I definitely had fuel in the lines.

stale fuel does not combust.....thats why the car wont start....or that is why ours wouldnt.

Must have been something else coincidental. I had mine off the road for about 5 months, with a realatuvely empty tank, and managed to get it started and running OK. Just needed a good battery to fire everything.
Must have been something else coincidental. I had mine off the road for about 5 months, with a realatuvely empty tank, and managed to get it started and running OK. Just needed a good battery to fire everything.

No it WAS the fuel...no coincidence....

Adam...run 7's if your running more than standard boost.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...