Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would suggest using electronic cleaning solvent for the afm as it is a fairly sensitive hot wire element in it, spray it leave it for 10 min and do it again just to make sure its cleaned properly wait 10 min before driving . It works a treat as I have used it on both of my cars & my sisters atmo R32

Questions:

How far away do you spray from (don't want to damage the element)

Do you only spray the element or the inside of the AFM casing as well?

How do you know when it's clean? Do you shake it around and watch crap fall out?

Depending on how much oil there is in your intake pipe you may wish to spray with your AFM still attached. Generally I just remove the AFM and clean it separately. You can always remove the intake piping and clean it off the car if you want.

Run your finger around the inside of the AFM. If it's oily, then it could probably do with a clean too.

I use CRC Contact Cleaner. Hold it about 15-20cm from the AFM, and spray in the direction that air passes through. May need to give it a few blasts if you have a lot of oil.

Once it dries (about 30 sec) you should be able to run your finger inside and see that it is clean.

You shouldn't see stuff fall out of it. Generally oil will just stick to the element and the inner plastic.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, I've always wondered :D

but wtf is the AFM

Air flow meter - it basically measures how much air passes into your engine. It's the main input for the computer and a hell of a lot of decisions are made based on that input. Basically if you find the air filter in your car and follow the pipe a little back you should see a piece of "pipe" with some flanges on it and a plug coming out of it. That's your AFM.

Don't use Carby Cleaner on the AFM it leaves a residue afterwards. Use Brake Cleaner or Electrical contact cleaner instead.

Do it on the car if you can get to it, just spray the actual senor wire the rest of the assembley doesnt matter.

Weasel the AFM is after the air filter it is a piece of wire and plastic sitting in the middle of the intake pipe. If it gets dirty it can give incorrect readings to the ECU resulting in missfires

What Duncan Said,,,"Brake Cleaner". It's my mechanic in a Can. Cleans AFM's,,,funny enough brakes (removes spilt brake fluid as well as cleaning brake grunge. This stuff SHOULD be in everybodies toolkit.

I even use it to clean up his oil seepage between races.

If you really want to do a test,,,get a clean piece of glass and spray some carby cleaner,brake cleaner and contact cleaner on it, one at a time and you tell me the results.

Neil.

  • 3 weeks later...

haha. when i cleaned my AFM i used CRC contact cleaner. didnt need much, endded up taking it back. scored $20. booya

i cleanded it too much, long story short. my car was running better when the AFM was dirty (as my car was rooted). so for no reason i decided to try dirty it again... used everything i could find under the sun, as long as it was spray-able. however it wouldnt go dirty again.

anyways got my initial problem fixed and now the car runs fine, with my poor attempts to dirty the AFM.... id clean it again if i didnt have to go back to the shop to get a can of cleaner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to more wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
    • I put Whiteline pineapples in my old 33, they came in a 6 pack of them, got rid of the axle tramp altogether, cheap, quick and easy install,  they were pretty solid units though...???high durometer???? and NVH was increased a fair bit How hard are the ones you installed?
    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end are made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
×
×
  • Create New...