Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just a bit stumped on screws for attaching number plate to R32 GTR. Ive been to bunnings, total tools, even melbourne bolt co. and they don't have the right size!

Where did you guys get yours? If anyone has 4 spare i could swipe / buy, that'd be great. Cheers.

To the guys that mentioned M6 screws - would these do?

Yes, but why buy 100 when you need 4 ?? (OK, a few spares is good, but that's a bit over the top......) The few bolts you need will cost maybe $1 from a bolt specialist.

Just check the yellow pages for bolt suppliers in your area. Ring them and ask if they stock M6 x 15mm (length....just a suggestion) hex head bolts or screws, preferably plated (zinc). I'll be very surprised if the first one you ring doesn't have them.

Note that places like AutoBarn, etc will have them.

Turns out the same dude at Melb Bolt Co. who told me they didnt have to fit my application... as soon as i mentioned M6 "oh yeah, we got those"

Heh. Work experience ftw. :)

they'll have them at a repco or supercheap in a big stand. Champion brand.

They'll probably also have them at bunnings.. usually they are in a big rack with pretty much any other bolt you could care to name in a packet of 4-5 of them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...