Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im just after soem advice/opinions about an R34 GTT. I owned a lightly modified r33 for a few years but sold it about 12 months ago but after driving old bombs and playing with motorbikes since then i realise i miss the skyline too much.

Im looking for a white R34 GTT manual and am looking at spening something in the region of 25 to 28 thousan dollars. I guess since i have been out of the look for a while and not reasing the forums often im not sure how the market it for the R34. I know i had major difficulties selling my R33 even though it was in mint condition and i lost alot of money on the car because when i bought it i was willing to pay a premium for a car in such good condition. Im not really prepared to do the same again. The R33 market has been saturated for along time now but what about the R34? Does the supply outwieigh the demand for one so its possibly to be quite picky for one?

One of my major gripes with the R33 was it was really thirsty. I remember never getting better than around 16L/100k's for my fuel economy and id like to think with a newer spec engine the RB25DET neo was somewhat improved. Yes? No?

Would people say the GTT would be a better car for taking to cub track days than an R33? I always preffered to get the most out of my suspension than spending money on the engine with my R33 but i could never fool myself into thinking it was a small agile car. The R34 looks smaller to me which i asume would be slightly better handling.

What other significant chassis differences are there between the R33 and R34 and what is significantly different between the engines in both cars?

Thanks all.

Hey mate,

I have owned both cars, they are VERY similar.

In terms of performance, the R34 is slightly quicker, handles slightly better. But if you sit in an R33, then sit an R34 10mins later, you can tell that you are simply sitting in a newer "cosmetic" version of what is essentially the same car. Fuel economy for me, was pretty much the same as the R33.

That said, the R34 looks crazy. So go for it.

Im looking for a white R34 GTT manual and am looking at spening something in the region of 25 to 28 thousan dollars.

1) you could buy mine and convert it to manual for that:) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98570

Though you might not want to convert it once you have tried the M-AT box.

One of my major gripes with the R33 was it was really thirsty. I remember never getting  better than around 16L/100k's for my fuel economy and id like to think with a newer spec engine the RB25DET neo was somewhat improved. Yes? No?

Yes. I never get down to 16l/100km, even with stop start driving around town. Out on the highway, sticking to the speed limit with Cruise control on, I get 10l/100km.

What other significant chassis differences are there between the R33 and R34 and what is significantly different between the engines in both cars?

Major difference in stiffness and engine... Read my add and follow the link to Nissans press release.

Ian

i think your R33 either needed a tune, or an o2 sensor, or you just thrashed it everywhere, because 16l/100km is piss weak. from the countless threads on fuel consumption there are a lot of people with modded 33's getting 10-12l/100km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...