Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no search?  :D

take em off one by one.

If the idle changes, thats not broken one.

Idle wont change when the stuffed coil is disconnected

Thanks Ash, its a common problem for R34gtt's. It comes and go so its kind of hard to trace which one. They cost $156+gst each from Nissan so we dont' want to change all sixes :D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1804252
Share on other sites

If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1804406
Share on other sites

the coils in r34 suck ass. when you replace that one, in a couple of months another will go and it keeps happening. i got sick of it and had to get splitfires. i know its probably $520 you want ot spend right now, but i will save anguish in the future. its not a hard job testing and changing the coils, but tedious and the 2nd or 3rd time you do it it drives you nuts well it drove me nuts anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1805947
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
Isnt that a bad thing to do I read up that the spark is known to kill?

Yes, make sure all your leads are in good condition, and make sure you not touching earth (the cars body).

I've been stung twice, once from an old carby motor (which would have been between 5,000 V and 20,000 V) and once from electronic ignition.. (generally 40,000 V to 60,000 V)..

It hurts alot, and can toss you into the air...

I ended up across the carport, and with chronic shaking from my right hand to my left for a couple of hours..

In that circumstance, a lead had fallen off, so, with the car still running, I lent on the radiator support and grab the lead, then saw a fat blue spark come out from under the insulated plug, and sting me on my hand..

I still live... Although it is certainly enough current to kill someone, because it sparks with each revolution of the motor, it isn't a constent current.

Therefore, rather than locking your muscles so you can't move; you get 1 violent zap and thrown free.

Lucky for me.... It hadn't even crossed my mind at the time. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-2522570
Share on other sites

If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:) cheers :)

0.6-0.9 is the proper Ohm resistance between positive and negative leads

HOWEVER you cannot test your primary (at least i couldnt) which is generally where the problem happens.

as well heat is generally a thing to keep in mind when testing coilpacks.

so no bench testing doesnt work that great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-2523507
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...