Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just bought myself a 1993 r33 gts-t in what I thought was mint condition. It looked great, sounded sweet with the hegh flow cat and 3" cat back hks exhaust. It wasn't till I got it home that I found out the knob 2 owners ago had overboosted the standard turbo and melted the wheels. I had to pay a bucketload to get new steel wheels, new housing, and wastegate actuator and while I was at it I got it high flowed. Next came the dump pipe. It was at that stage I found a massive power loss at about 4500-6000 rpm. After exhaustive search on the net and lots of trial and error i found out the AFM was shot. Thats getting fixed now and I have run into my next dilemma, WHAT TO WASTE MY MONEY ON NEXT...

I know I need a fmic but need to know what is best and on the cheap having spent way too much already.

Is bar/plate better or tube/fin design. I also want to do the install myself as my mech "friend" has already taken about a month to get everything sorted (In total I have only driven the car for about 2 weeks and am sick of my POS ford laser).

Any suggestions would help.

My mods are:

High flowed steel wheel standard turbo

3" stainless dump pipe

High flow cat

3" HKS cat back exhaust

Turbosmart Boost controller (only running standard boost until afm fixed)

All the rest is standard atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99114-whats-the-best-cheap-fmic/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with the hybrid copy intercooler. Pick one of those up for approximately $170 delivered to your door step and then take your selection at a piping kit which would cost you a further $350 or so. Either that or look on Ebay for some of the packages they offer

i like these coolers and piping.. there hybird coolers.. custem made pipeing.. give them a call!

http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/intercoolers.html

Edited by DriftSquad

You had the turbo "highflowed", then fitted a decent dump and at that stage this power loss occured between 4500-6000rpm.

How positive are you that the cause is the AFM? Because it sounds like a textbook case of the ecus rich and retard strategy.

Did you try turning the boost down? Did it still happen?

Thanks for the info guys.

I am 100% positive it is the afm cuz the problem disappeared when I borrowed a mates s1 afm.

Boost is currently at standard.

I only noticed this problem after getting the turbo done because it was so badly screwed, especially the wastegate bleeding boost thanks to the busted actuator.

Gtr coolers are ridiculously overpriced for what they are imo. Just like every other gtr part. I mean, sure, it's proven that it's OK.

BUT why buy a gtr cooler for 250-400$ which could be a 15 year old POS when you can buy a 2nd hand apexi cooler with the 90degree return bend for like $350 (I've got one).

be careful, some cheap china kits wont fit in skylines.

I had one which had instructions to bend bits of the chassis to fit the piping. err no lol

I also have heard some horror stories like that. Dodgy kits that dont fit except if you cut and bend things are not my best choice. Heard of some guy who had to cut up his fan to make it fit. Not a good idea. Also is it worth getting a forward facing intake plenum or are they a waste of money?

Hopefully I will finally be getting my baby back today. I miss her so much even though she was almost as slow as my laser (I got beaten by a magna sports!! argh). Have to smoke my mate who owns an 88 supercharged mr2. shouldn't be too hard, hehe.

I would keep an eye out for better quality but second had kits, I got a HKS cooler plus piping for $600. Admittedly that was no cheaper than some of the hybrid copies but I was really patting myself on the back when I was able to fit it in around an hour due to the fact that every part was absouluteley mm perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...