Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just bought myself a 1993 r33 gts-t in what I thought was mint condition. It looked great, sounded sweet with the hegh flow cat and 3" cat back hks exhaust. It wasn't till I got it home that I found out the knob 2 owners ago had overboosted the standard turbo and melted the wheels. I had to pay a bucketload to get new steel wheels, new housing, and wastegate actuator and while I was at it I got it high flowed. Next came the dump pipe. It was at that stage I found a massive power loss at about 4500-6000 rpm. After exhaustive search on the net and lots of trial and error i found out the AFM was shot. Thats getting fixed now and I have run into my next dilemma, WHAT TO WASTE MY MONEY ON NEXT...

I know I need a fmic but need to know what is best and on the cheap having spent way too much already.

Is bar/plate better or tube/fin design. I also want to do the install myself as my mech "friend" has already taken about a month to get everything sorted (In total I have only driven the car for about 2 weeks and am sick of my POS ford laser).

Any suggestions would help.

My mods are:

High flowed steel wheel standard turbo

3" stainless dump pipe

High flow cat

3" HKS cat back exhaust

Turbosmart Boost controller (only running standard boost until afm fixed)

All the rest is standard atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99114-whats-the-best-cheap-fmic/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with the hybrid copy intercooler. Pick one of those up for approximately $170 delivered to your door step and then take your selection at a piping kit which would cost you a further $350 or so. Either that or look on Ebay for some of the packages they offer

i like these coolers and piping.. there hybird coolers.. custem made pipeing.. give them a call!

http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/intercoolers.html

Edited by DriftSquad

You had the turbo "highflowed", then fitted a decent dump and at that stage this power loss occured between 4500-6000rpm.

How positive are you that the cause is the AFM? Because it sounds like a textbook case of the ecus rich and retard strategy.

Did you try turning the boost down? Did it still happen?

Thanks for the info guys.

I am 100% positive it is the afm cuz the problem disappeared when I borrowed a mates s1 afm.

Boost is currently at standard.

I only noticed this problem after getting the turbo done because it was so badly screwed, especially the wastegate bleeding boost thanks to the busted actuator.

Gtr coolers are ridiculously overpriced for what they are imo. Just like every other gtr part. I mean, sure, it's proven that it's OK.

BUT why buy a gtr cooler for 250-400$ which could be a 15 year old POS when you can buy a 2nd hand apexi cooler with the 90degree return bend for like $350 (I've got one).

be careful, some cheap china kits wont fit in skylines.

I had one which had instructions to bend bits of the chassis to fit the piping. err no lol

I also have heard some horror stories like that. Dodgy kits that dont fit except if you cut and bend things are not my best choice. Heard of some guy who had to cut up his fan to make it fit. Not a good idea. Also is it worth getting a forward facing intake plenum or are they a waste of money?

Hopefully I will finally be getting my baby back today. I miss her so much even though she was almost as slow as my laser (I got beaten by a magna sports!! argh). Have to smoke my mate who owns an 88 supercharged mr2. shouldn't be too hard, hehe.

I would keep an eye out for better quality but second had kits, I got a HKS cooler plus piping for $600. Admittedly that was no cheaper than some of the hybrid copies but I was really patting myself on the back when I was able to fit it in around an hour due to the fact that every part was absouluteley mm perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • interestingly enough, i found out the answer is yes. doing a flush did fix my recurring A/T light. it might have been because of the trans filter: but that doesn't really make sense to me. the fluid/filter was super dirty. would that increase the pressure in the lines and trigger an A/T light? does the car even have a way of detecting that? i have no idea. i've done 200+ miles after the flush and no A/T light. if my A/B solenoids went bad, i would think the light would've come on. shifts and drives way better now though...at 2k rpm instead of 2500...no hesitation and downshifts when i want it to. 
    • I vote go red. Only because I hate keeping gloss black clean. Was no worries helping out either! Glad you've survived the rain outs of QLD
    • I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
×
×
  • Create New...