Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I noticed today that where the passengers feet go, it is leaking water(or something).

Im assuming that the big white box under there is the air con?

I had a look under their and its coming from the white box (air con? again not sure).

Can anyone help me resolve this problem?

Thanks

Stel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99121-leaking-liquid-under-passengers-feet/
Share on other sites

I had a look under their and its coming from the white box (air con? again not sure).

Yes it's the aircon unit (evaporator) and the water is probably due to a blocked drain hose. Condensation from the evaporator drops to the bottom of the box and drained to the outside of the car through a rubber hose that passes through the firewall into the engine bay. The hose will be attached somewhere near the bottom of the box. You need to check it isn't blocked in the engine bay (look for a black hose coming fom the firewall on the passenger probably with a right angle bend toward the road), or by crap that gathers in the bottom of the box after many years of use.

Yes it's the aircon unit (evaporator) and the water is probably due to a blocked drain hose.  Condensation from the evaporator drops to the bottom of the box and drained to the outside of the car through a  rubber hose that passes through the firewall into the engine bay.  The hose will be attached somewhere near the bottom of the box.  You need to check it isn't blocked in the engine bay (look for a black hose coming fom the firewall on the passenger probably with a right angle bend toward the road), or by crap that gathers in the bottom of the box after many years of use.

Thanks for the info mate.

I will have a look tomorrow.

Thanks for the info mate.

I will have a look tomorrow.

There is another possibility....heater core. In that case tho the leaking fluid will be either green if your using coolant (although some coolants are red) or rust coloured water if your not (and that would probably explain the leak). Let's hope it's not the heater core.

yeah could well be heater core so check for loss of coolant....and if it is get ready for a big labour bill from the mechanic or a frustrating weeekend if you do it yourself.

All for a couple of cm of rubber pipe.....

oh man. heater core replacement is generally about 10 hours labour if you are using a good, quick mechanic. if they are slow, it will be more.

when the heater core exploded on our daihatsu we just looped the hoses and bypassed it. not recomended though as the heater can be useful for demisting the screen. either way you need to get it seen to asap.

My heater core went a little while ago... haven't gotten around to replacing it yet - just looped the coolant lines until I can be f**ked ripping the dash out...

yep...

by passed it today...

I just couldn't be bothered mucking around with taking the dash out.

I got quoted from 2 mechanic's, one 700 (performance mechanic) and another mechanic (who im selling his business for him) 1300.

FU*K THAT! lol

I think i would rather freeze in winter....

Thanks for the help guys :blink:

Stel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...