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lets start from the beginning..

i got to the starting line and i didnt notice any smoke.. got to 1/4 of the way and i really started to notice it.

one of my catch can hoses started leaking oil which then sprayed all over my engine bay (i think it would've sprayed onto the fan, then the fan sprayed everywhere else).

now the car feels like its running on 5 or 4 cylinders... its sounding like a wrx.

well i cleaned it all up at the drags and drove it home.

im not sure if a melted piston is whats wrong with it.. or one of my spark plugs snapped from the heat. but im just hoping its nothing major otherwise im gonna kick the shit out of it till it stops taking money from me.

all the vitals seem fine (oil pressure same, engine temp same, knock sensor good).

what coud it be?

ive started a thread in general maintenance but yeah.. shit go.

ARRGHHH

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its still running on 5 cyl.

i took my sparkies out and they were all pretty black, but the one at the end, near the firewall (number 6??) had oil on it.

i didnt get any blow by on my way home, but it was still running crap.

ive got a feeling its ringlands too.

Thats bad luck, but thats racing

I had an 'incident' with the GTR on Saturday, which was not my fault and now require parts, so i know how you feel (as would the overwhelming majority of users here)

Good luck with repairs dude

thanks..

i heard if it was ringlands i'd get oil in my catch tank.. i dont have any oil in my catch tank. it was only when the pipe burst i started burning oil.

it doesnt blow smoke out of the exhaust either :S

ahhh so that was you in the yellow 33....

thought I recognised it from somewhere....you had stockies on though so didnt recognise your car.

I was there to spectate.......will be racing next week though:D

Hope its nothing major dude.......and just hope I come back in one piece next week.

touch wood.

Did you get any runs in

and hopfully it is only a flowed plug or some thing

bad luke dude

when are you goen back, i am doing the wa drag night and with simler power to yours i wonder how i would go

james

tommyk im going to keep the auto. maybe get a shift kit in.

while the motor is out im going to get the box inspected to see if any parts need swaping, but shes still going strong.

my first run was pretty crap, i didnt get to start off as well as i would've liked. i got a 14.0.

my second run was a 14.3 with blue smoke coming out of my engine, and it running on 5cyl.

i'm going with a rebuild guys. wish me luck hey!

  • 2 weeks later...

it was definately a boost spike mid-burnout, i think it hit around 20-22psi while its only been tuned for 12psi. so that would've done it for sure.

if i did a 3L bottom end it'd be a stock 3L.

id rather a forged/strengthened/balanced rb25 bottom end than a stock rb30. being a uni student i could only really afford to do either one and i'd rather the stronger rb25.

Fair enough...

I know what being a uni student is like :rofl:

I have heard that the Rb30 stock bottom end is good for around 280rwkw. In the other thread there is some guy that put a 270 000km bottom end in and is running 300rwkw.

Seems a bit excessive but I reckon the 3L making 250rwkw would be a nicer power delivery than the 2.5L at 250rwkw.

if you build this so called "Strong rb25 bottom end" and your tune is shit or bleed valve spikes or fuel pump is weak, then your 2K maybe 3K bottom end is going to have the same death as your current one.

and RB30 bottom end is worth $100.

if you break it, just get another.

you could break 5 or 10 rb30 bottom ends before it costs the same as a built rb25 bottom end.

and I am yet to see someone on these forums who built a stock rb30 bottom end say they broke one.

the guy that used a stock rb30 bottom end and stock 25 head is sky30.

his car makes 312rwkw or something.

here is a quick quote from the RB30 thread.

That is exactly why i did it that way, i got a complete RB30de for $50 and used the complete block, i thrash it to 7000rpm every day without a single worry ( but it still hasnt gone bang).

I know if I blew an engine (provided head was ok) Id grab a 3L bottom end.

I think I'd like to check the pistons and put new rings and big end bearings in though.

I was thinking maybe if you could get a rebuilt VL/R31 short motor for about 700 bucks it might be a good way to go. I wonder if that sky guy used the RB25 oil pump? Ive heard the RB30e oil pumps arent as good.

I'm not going to do it yet as my 2.5L seems fine - touchwood

Like what GTST said - if you are tight you are better off goign the 3L and get a decent tuner. You wont have to run as much boost to get same power either

Edited by benl1981

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