Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how r ya guys! just had the 32 dyno'd 2day. it only has an exhaust, injectors(the comp has been played with 2) and r32gtr ball bearing turbos i think. i thought it was running fairly stock but it surprised me pulling 204.3 four wheel kw's. at 12psi. it was a shock 2 me. but im stoked!! i was expecting 180-190 four wheel kw's

i know alot of u guys got cars that has heaps more power! im happy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99244-had-my-32-gtr-dynod/
Share on other sites

i went to Turbo Tune on south road, they have a 4wd dyno set up. umm, i think the cost was round $60-$70 for a power run and print out of it, i had a service as well that day.

i rekon they got up to a 50/50 split, the tourqe guage goes up there, but im not 100% sure! i thought they had the same attessa-ets system as the gts-4

i rekon they got up to a 50/50 split, the tourqe guage goes up there, but im not 100% sure! i thought they had the same attessa-ets system as the gts-4

ye i assumed they have

i call my GTS-4 a baby GTR i will have to go and see them in the new year

ye i believe they run diff diff ratios but r u guessing there alot stronger ie different axels or u have it on good authority

i cant see nissan developing heaps of different parts for the 3 main kind of variety of skyline

yeah ur right mate...slippin or g-force i reckon causes the front diff to engage. when i boost the torque guage goes up, when i got ova a bump i guess sencing lose of traction and yeah in the wet

Wait.. I thought GTR's were RWD cars unless the rear wheels begin to slip? Say, with ATTESSA you have a 100% RWD car, but if you start sliding around on gravel the front wheels bite, up to 50% or something like that?

no i think thats wrong there constant AWD

i should of looked first

The ATTESA E-TS system an electronically controlled all wheel drive system.

Edited by Madaz
how r ya guys! just had the 32 dyno'd 2day. it only has an exhaust, injectors(the comp has been played with 2) and r32gtr ball bearing turbos i think. i thought it was running fairly stock but it surprised me pulling 204.3 four wheel kw's. at 12psi. it was a shock 2 me. but im stoked!! i was expecting 180-190 four wheel kw's

i know alot of u guys got cars that has heaps more power! im happy

i didnt think that r32 GTRs had ball bearing turbos.... only ceramic or N1 steel wheel

ok well i have observed while owning and driving a r32 gtr that just normal driving the torquesplit guage sits on 0% font 100% rear, start to accelerate, wheel spin or loss of traction and the guage starts to increase. depending on the circumstance, determines the amount of torque that is split. going by what i have seen in my gtr!!

Atessa works by G-FORCES. There are g-force sensors throughout the car so for example when it feels sudden acceleration etc it will start transferring power even without loss of traction.

That dyno result is good and is about the normal for those mods. I have done 226kw at all 4 with exaust, power fc but running 1 bar, so your car is on the money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
×
×
  • Create New...