Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lee,,,unless you have a re-built motor thats not something I would recommend. Flushing an older motor will only start shortening your motors life. The small crud build up in older motors helps stop lifter,ring land and other interior parts from losing there bedded in tolerences.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1811207
Share on other sites

Lee,

I'd go with what Neill Says.

Though,

You might consider doing a quick turnaround in oil AND Filter changes;

say @ only 1,000-2,000 Klm

I change my Filter EVERY time I change the oil.

5,000 klm...............cheap insurence.

To keep costs down, use a cheaper oil for the first change,

NOT Bottom of the shelf.

That oil would still be quite usable for other purposes.

Top-ups, or in my case,

use in the Donga, a Farmyard Hack-car.

Edited by Ivan in Oz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1811377
Share on other sites

Using flush additives your likely to loosen crud and get it stuck in oil galleries etc.

Just use a good quality synthetic oil, change it at the recommended intervals and overtime it will become cleaner from the extra detergents in synthetic oils.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1812751
Share on other sites

The thing that I never understand is peoeple say don't use flush coz it might dislodge and clog stuff.

But if you never flush it, then it'll just build up more and more and more and then eventuall clog somethign else won't it?

PErhaps someone knowledgeable with engine building experience can comment on this

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1813047
Share on other sites

Provided the oil is changed at the correct intervals there will never ever be buildup in the engine in the first place.

Some people are just paranoid about maintenance and cause problems trying to rectify faults that never existed in the first place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1813066
Share on other sites

Yeah, but i meant if its used in engines that are full of crud, for eg. engines that have done 100,000km without an oil change you run the risk of it dislodging stuff and blocking galleries.

If your engine is not in this condition, why would you even consider using a flush treatment?

It goes back to what Neil said earlier, if you run it in an engine that doesn't have excess buildup, it can still potentially clean the smaller carbon buildup on pistons walls etc, that help with combustion cylinder sealing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99359-engine-oil-flush/#findComment-1814783
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...