Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I seen some where if u drop RB26 rods and crank into your car it should turn it in a 2.2litre RB20.....is this true, i think it is but im wondering will these just drop in with no other mods......and is it really worth the work and money for an extra .2 of a litre.

How much would it cost and is it worth it?

- Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99363-rb20det-to-rb22det/
Share on other sites

Dont see how...

I mean i did a JUN 2.2 kit on my second GTS-X and the crank was totally different to a stock rb26 one...

I just dont see it turning in that little bore. I mean the counter waits...

I dont think the rb26 bearing will fit the rb20 block in fact im sure they wont. Also you can't use the rb20 bearings as their smaller on the big ends....

Anyways by the time you get these parts you will have spent enough money to pay for a full JUN kit brand new...

I paid AUD $3400 for the kit when i was in japan on holidays.

The kit included pistons, crank, rods, bearings & rings.

I also purchased cams and other bits and pieces to suit at an extra cost.

Edited by Col-GTSX

yes it can be done, tomei supplies pistons to suit a 2.2l rb20 that is achieved by boring the motor to 82mm.

rb26 bits DO fit but the block has to be clearanced for it to fit.

using rb26 bits (crank, rods, bearings) and special pistons (tomei in this case) gives you a 2.4l rb20 with a capable 9k redline due to the rb26's better crank and rods...........

but like i said above tomei does sell 82mm pistons to bring it out to a 2.2 using stock rods.

Edited by carl h

This is a very common topic, do a search on RB23 and RB24.

Here is one of my posts on this subject....

Hi guys, I will try and answer the questions, but before I do I should point out that you can swap most of your good bits onto/into an RB25DET and end up with a better result than building an RB23/RB24. And it will cost a damn site less as well.

On to the questions;

The standard RB20 bore is 78 mm, the most common RB23 (2,280 cc's) piston upgrade is 4AGZE which are 81 mm (from memory). This means you will need to relieve the combustion chambers radius at the bore by 1.5. Then taper it into the normal combustion chamber shape. Pretty simple really, any machine shop could do it.

You will need to relieve the combustion chamber volume to achieve your target compression ratio. From memory about 3 cc (slightly more than a good polish) gives 8.8 to 1 for an RB23. The combustion chamber volumes will have to be equalised of course.

Porting is pretty much essential if you want to use the higher rpm effectively without huge amounts of boost. There is a lot of work on both the inlet and exhaust ports needed. If you do a really good job, you should end up around 85% of what a standard RB25 cylinder head flows.

Depending on the experience of the machinist and the workshop hourly rate you are looking at around $1K to do the above.

There are larger valves available for RB20's , I have seen 2mm larger inlet valves and 1.5 mm larger exhaut valves. I have a recollection that they were for a VG30 or CA18 but they fit the RB20. Since VG30's are popular in the US there are quite a few valve, valve spring alteratives. A quick check of the sizes should confirm the suitability.

From memory the VG30 valves where around $US20 each, so that's $640 for the set plus freight.

RB26 cranks vary considerably in price, I have seen R32GTR cranks around $400, rods around $200. Up to double that for R33GTR cranks and rods. The best suggestion I can make is to shop around the For Sale forum and check out the historic prices.

As for cams, 256 to 264's would be fine for using with the hydraulic followers (260 Poncams for example) . But to really use 272's or higher you would need to do a solid follower conversion. No, RB26 bits won't fit, well not without some serious engineering and machining. But CA18/VG30 may well fit, worth checking anyway.

By the time you have the necessary RB23/RB24 parts purchased, get it all machined and assembled you are looking at a bit over $5K. Then you have to add the accessories, manifolds, turbos etc.

Hope that was of some help

:D cheers :)

So sydney kid wat your saying is that most of your rb20 good parts will bolt into a RB25?? like if i went out and bought a rb25 would my rb20 tomei cams fit straight in...and how would i get my gtr injectors to work or even fit.....could i still use my ap engineering power fc with this motor...and my rb20 splitfire coilpacks??? if all this stuff fits im gettin one next week :D

depends where your from. Terry from kansai automotive here in adelaide is getting his shipment very soon, stocking some RB26 cranks and conrods.....i think he's using an Rb20 to test the conversion himself, bores it out to roughly a 2.3 ltr withou pistons.....coz u dont actually need to change pistons, but if the cash is there...DO IT! Give Kansai an email and he should hopefuly help you somehow. www.kansaiautomotive.com.au or just .com cant remember, i practically live there lol so i never go no the site

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...