Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i just bought a std r32 gtst (only pod n 3 inch exhaust) n a mechanic said its been boosted well above 7psi n i dont have a boost controler to turn it down, even on low trottle the boost runs very quick to show reading over past the factory boost guage of 7psi, if im runnin this high boost for long,

a) what damage could it be doin to my engine n turbo since i dont have a front mount or any other mods for sufficient airflow cooling for the boost level (prob 10/11 psi)? if so what would be a safe boost level without puttin a strain on the engine without the frontmount?

what would be the cheapest n best way to fix the problem? (maybe turn the boost back down with a manual boost controller)

c) would a bleed valve help?

d) i also get 300km on a 42l tank with only some racing, is this decent?

thanks guys for any help you can give me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99408-plz-help-too-much-boost/
Share on other sites

The stock R32 turbo can run on 12psi all year round. It's when you push pass this mark that it starts to faulter. You'll find if you were to put a larger intercooler on, it'll drop back down to around 7psi.

I think you should go back to elbee's post, the stock gauge is in mm/Hg which is about half of PSI. So 7mmHg is about 14psi which is pretty high.

Stock boost is 10psi, and like ruffryder said you'll often get 1-2 extra from an exhaust. but 14psi or higher is too much to run regularly on a standard turbo, and might be causing pinging too if you have a standard motor and standard tune.

Get a dyno run (about $40-40) and get it checked out

thanks man but yea wen i push the car the stock boost gauge reaches to the top right away and you can still hear the turbo spooling up after that, so this would most definetly be runnig more than 12psi according to your reply? if so can i just burrow my mates electronic boost controller to turn down n give it back to him or do i need to get one my self?

just on the issue of fuel consumption, i think that 300km to 40 l of fuel is reasonable, my stock standard engine takes roughly 50 litres to 375 k's, and thats ALOT of hard driving (many 6000 RPM gear changes)... but i havent had my car dyno'd so i dont know if its running at normal power though.

i thought that the stock rb20 turbos were supposed to run at 4 psi???

cheers. james.

umm are u reading from the standard boost gage? cuz there very old and unreliable... what i suggest u do is buy a boost gage hook it up then read what your running... my car run's 10 - 10.5 psi.. i have zorst, pod and a bov... so get a new gage from auto barn 80 bucks.. comes with everythign to install...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...