Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got a new fuel pump last week car runs perfects then this week i have the same problem i was trying to get rid off for quite some time.

From 2nd to 3rd gear my car splutters and has like a one second delay then has to build up boost again.....also if i rev my car all the way out it hits about 4500rpm then the car climbs up the speed extremely slow like some on has grabbed it around its neck and is choking it.

When my car did run perfect it was extremely fast now its slugish.

I did a ECU test and it comes up saying "34" Knock sensor but i dont think this would be the issue?

I got a RB20det in my silvia with a front mount, BOV, Pod, Splitfire coilpacks, Iridium Sparkplugs, 12psi, 500HP fuel pump brand new and also a turbo smart boost-tee manual boost controller they ones u wind...u think that could be the issue?

What do u think it could be.

Thanks guys please help.

- Luke

Edited by RB20DET_Silvia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99593-car-is-holding-back/
Share on other sites

I did a ECU test and it comes up saying "34" Knock sensor but i dont think this would be the issue?

If the ECU is getting error 34, then the knock sensors are either unplugged or faulty. This means the ecu will be using the safe fuel and ignition maps, this means retarded ignition and rich fuel mixtures so that will be why your car feels so slow.

I would check the connections for the knock sensors first, could just be unplugged or need a bit of a clean. If not then you will need new knock sensors.

My ECU was coming up with code 13 which was the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - i read up further on it and it seemed to be controlling the amount of petrol flow depending on the car's temperature.. I checked the plugs and they were cooked..So i rectified it and ECU came up with code 55 but the car still stutters/starves up top end..

I remember someone saying that one his tuners grounded one of the ECU pinout's as a 'temporary' fix..which? I have no idea..

Im going to get my car put on the dyno to diagnose the problem..I'll let you guys know how i go..

RB20DET Silvia - i suggest you check your plugs/sensors as they may have corroded etc; over time..As a rule of thumb, as soon as the ECU comes up with a fault, it should be looked into ASAP and not be put into the "but i dont think this would be the issue" bin :)

Merry Xmas

i'm having the same on my skyline r33 s1... it's been going on for about 3 months now.. feels like the car has it's hand brakes on! i've tried everything! but still nothing. problem is still there! it's annoying not knowing what it is.....

hey just wondering how do you find out the ecu thingy. coming up with numbers??? the codes i mean..

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...