Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is my new skyline. its a 1981 hgc211 gt-ex. have fitted a close ratio dog box 5sp, rs legacy water to air intercooler and remove all the emission gear. it runs a locked diff. have taken it out to the track for a few drift days. went ok but needs decent clutch and fimer suspension. want ot upgrade to a l28et.

post-25514-1135489526.jpg

post-25514-1135489666.jpg

post-25514-1135489770.jpg

Edited by hgc211 turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/
Share on other sites

Interesting, a nice looking c211 you have there. Its obviously an import, i would hazard to guess that you have the only c211 gt-ex turbo in Australia. How much did it set you back? Have you tuned the motor aside from the intercooler?

$200. im in nz. some old guy was trying to sell it to a wrecker!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1815914
Share on other sites

holy shit dont see to many of those here, cool engine too

dont crash it, please

did you bring it in or did you buy it off someone else who  imported it?

im from nz i payed $200 for it !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1815916
Share on other sites

that i/c is interesting...easy to do?

pretty easy, had to make a adaptor plate for the new trottle body and had to moun i/c water pump and radiator. made a big difference but not enough, have taken all the emission gear off it .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1815920
Share on other sites

pretty easy,  had to make a adaptor plate for the new trottle body and had to moun i/c water pump and radiator.  made a big difference but not enough,  have taken all the emission gear off it .

I've been sort of considering using one of them on my DR, by big difference what do you mean? reckon it's worth it form a budgetry point of view?

Thanks.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1819240
Share on other sites

well it made a difference buy being able to wind up the boost and to stop pinking, although it depends on where you set the timing to. mines about 23 degrees. i forgot to mention i had replaced the turbo with a r31 rb20det turbo and i have been running avgas in it to. im running about 13-15 psi boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1819734
Share on other sites

thats why i did it, i needed to get some more poke and didnt want to spend a cent, but i got sick of the intercooler pump noise pretty dam quickly. must be stuffed. probably not really worth it in the long run really. will be fitting a front mount intercooler soon dont want it tolook to wanky tho!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99643-my-new-skyline/#findComment-1819742
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...