Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a dyno graph all readings are on the same dyno (different days though) and they are on the same graph to read easier.

they are all rb26 engines with rebuild bottom ends (except the highflowed turbos engine which is dead stock). they are all stock capacity and the t04z engine and gt42 engine have different cams to stock.

there is a...

GT42 with 1.0 housing

garret T04Z 0.84 housing

r34 ball bearing low mounts

r32 highflowed stock turbos

here ya go...

108_0841.jpg

cheers

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99705-turbo-comparisions-on-rb26s/
Share on other sites

If all of the turbo's were tuned to max power then psi is irrelevant, one may make less power with more boost.

Diff ratio's here are irrelevant as its all done to RPM..

The poor bloke with the GT42.. Much too big for the 2.6ltr.

Excellent comparision.

Edited by Cubes

Fair enough, I missed the point that they were all rebuilt and tuned to max power.

Only saying that - some engines/boost may not be tuned as high due to different compression ratios, based on HG thickness or engine comp ...

But this is probably the best comparo possible. But i would still like to know boost pressures run across the board, if at all possible

the gt42 was lowish boost, i think around 20psi from memory, the t04z is on 18psi, and the r34 bb turbos i dont know, and the highflows are 18psi.

the t04z graph is simon (r32 GTS) on this forum on low boost (made 620hp i think recently on 23psi)

or by this you can see that twin hks t04z with 0.63 a/r rear housings are almost as responsive as a gt42 with 1.06 a/r.

added a garret t04z with.8 a/r as well for comparison

32gtr_581.jpg

IMG_9652_edited.jpg

32gtr_627.jpg

gt42 is running only 20psi

t04z are about 24psi

twin t04z's are about 28psi

Edited by Cerbera

Funny how some shops will claim more power from one ECU to another.

All ECUs will make the same power if the timing,fuel,turbos,intake etc are the same.

Note that its also the only graph not in full shootout mode.

The history of the 581hp car makes it a poor example as its had a few GCG turbos and GT42 cartrage in GCG housings and many engine builds plus 3 different ECUs and a best of low 12s at the drags, tho the Wolf that it was lending has done the fastest GTR pass in WA to date at 10.7.

Still looks like the TO4Z is the best street strip turbo at the moment.

LOL fastest GTR pass in WA @ 11.7

are you on crack

ND4SPD 10.7

Simons GTR 10.8

Got Boost (gts4 with rb26) 10.9

not even close to the lofty 11.7 you speak of

f**k even bobbos dead stock GTR did 11.8 .. stock turbos internals cams, mines rom, boost zorst and it hoses many a aftermarket ecu equipped GTR time..

Yeah the 581 rwhp is such a crap example.. had massive money thrown at it, blown up on a dyno (oh the memories) , its not like the dog box, autronics etc etc meant that the owner built the car to the best of standards...

/rant over

Brad well done for the post

Edited by [teejay]
Funny how some shops will claim more power from one ECU to another.

All ECUs will make the same power if the timing,fuel,turbos,intake etc are the same.

Note that its also the only graph not in full shootout mode.

The history of the 581hp car makes it a poor example as its had a few GCG turbos and GT42 cartrage in GCG housings and many engine builds plus 3 different ECUs and a best of low 12s at the drags, tho the Wolf that it was lending has done the fastest GTR pass in WA to date at 11.7.

Still looks like the TO4Z is the best street strip turbo at the moment.

also i do believe 2 GTR's and one GTS-4 have done 10's in WA

Edited by Cerbera
tho the Wolf that it was lending has done the fastest GTR pass in WA to date at 10.7.

Actually, the fastest pass by a gt-r in wa is Kier wilson, 9.something in his drag gt-r, and his street car backed it up with a low 10, and they both run motec..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha nice, my kids are the same two older boys say cars are boring while younger girls like them. My 1.5yo daughter watches D1GP on YouTube with me, holding a toy plate for steering wheel and making brmm brmm noises
    • Took the car out to see if it still starts, sure does. Daughter wanted to for a spin too, she loves it when it doses, also cries when we come home and try to take her out of the baby seat 馃ゲ  I actually put the seat in for her brother, but he absolutely hates the shitbox. Anyhow, so after looking at real boats, and transoms, bait tanks etc. and scupper valves attached to them, I came up with ideas to improve the catch can. The primary goal was to stop the interior smelling like vented catch can shit when the windows are down OR when the HVAC is not recirculated. My catch can has a sump drain/feed at the bottom, 2x cam cover inlets, 1x outlet back to the intake pipe and 1x vent at the top. The initial theory was at idle, and off boost there would be just enough suction from the intake pipe (pre turbo) to pull back any smelly shit from the catch can before it could escape out of the vent (which does have 1x layer of foam and a fine mesh screen on top). It kind of works, however on hot days, the motor is breathing more than the suction provided from the intake pipe (pre turbo) and there's a bit of vapours escaping (not a bit amount, but enough to piss me off). I could have just sealed off the vent, however it would mean each time I take it to the track or decide to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm, I would need to remove the seal. To address this, using scupper valve idea, I used a 3mm sheet of rubber and cut essentially a valve that requires a bit of pressure to crack open and vent. Took the shit box for a drive today, came back and parked the car. No heavy stench, great success 鈽猴笍 I still would swap for a F80 LCI or W204 2012+ C63 AMG, if anyone is keen 馃槄
    • I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning. If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there. The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue. This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car.   Some links I came across when I looked for solutions: Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring. https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031 https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx   You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34 There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.
  • Create New...