Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they shouldnt be to bad i have taken out the stub axel but never the arm yet, but it should be just a straight through bolt on either end of the arm then the top i think its a ball joint that connects it to the stub axel. undo that and hit it so it comes out. the only prob is im not sure if they are a press in press out bush if they are you may be able to cut it out but it is a shit of a job or have to take it to a suspention joint to do it for ya, if ya have the arm already out it shouldnt cost to much. hope it helps a bit.

yah. i work in a import shop and am fitting the complete whiteline kit to the stagea.

iv had the arm in the press and it wont budj without bending the arm. i need somone who may of seen it done before. basicly i want the easiest way of doing them bexcause time is money :D

The Whitleine front camber kit (KCA348) only replaces the outer bushes on the front upper control arm, not the inner. The yellow bushes in the following picture;

R34_GTST_Front_Suspension_Small.jpg

Be carefull that you are not looking at the rear camber kit (KCA347), one of the bushes is the same size as the front inner upper bush, the other isn't.

:starwars: cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
×
×
  • Create New...