Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I just registered after reading through threads and I am amazed at how smart and car savvy the people in this forum are. Firstly i want to introduce myself im Justin and im in Sydney. I own a standard (only for the moment) series 2 R33. I was talking to a mechanic I know and after discussions on what i wanted out of my skyline he suggested 3 mods. These were-

*3 inch turbo back exhaust

*Front Mounted Intercooler

*Panel replacement air filter

Basically all i wanted were mods which would not make me fork out heaps of money in the end like boosting it,aftermarket ecu etc. Just a couple of smart mods which will make my car look,go and sound decent. Ohhh yeh he also told me not to get a BOV because they will mess with the air flow metre and with this set up I will get some induction noise as the front mount amplifies the induction sound from the standard air box and also the standard BOV. So yeh his a mechanic and all but this is a car that you guys know so well and for a guy like me who doesnt want some drag beast would this be a good way to go and ultimately can the standard R33 ecu the one which i have heard stories about agree with these bolt on mods?? sorry for the long post but yeh i really appreciate your opinions.

Hell yeah! Three inch is good, why not go 3.5? :D

You're going to need that intercooler, but I don't know about your air filter.

The air filter should be cheap but with an intercooler we're talking more money. Although you could probably just get some cheapo one. Exhaust pipes are cheap, you can get them from any car place, really.

And yeah you should do well with these mods, no problems at all.

Air filters are really cheap, but you're only talking about one, right?

What R33 have you got?

All the stuff you have said is more or less correct.

Recommended path for stage 1 mods:

1) Performance air intake (panel or CAI'd pod filter).

2) 3" Turbo back exhaust, upgrade to hi-flow cat.

3) FMIC

4) Boost controller to turn up boost.

That should see you to a tad less than 200rwkw.

Ive got a 1997 series 2 gts-t. The mechanic told me to be on the safe side to not boost and just do the above mentioned "breathing mods" for the engine and the car will run better and less restrictive after a ecu reset is performed. So yeh this is pretty much all sweet is it??? Id boost and do more stuff but not interested in having a super road warrior like most of the skylines in here just a nice running and reasonably quick car and I am moving out soon so yeh need money for that.

Hell yeah! Three inch is good, why not go 3.5? :(

You're going to need that intercooler, but I don't know about your air filter.

The air filter should be cheap but with an intercooler we're talking more money. Although you could probably just get some cheapo one. Exhaust pipes are cheap, you can get them from any car place, really.

And yeah you should do well with these mods, no problems at all.

Air filters are really cheap, but you're only talking about one, right?

What R33 have you got?

Don't know if you should be listening to the above as he is only 14 and doesn't even own a Skyline let alone a GTR... :lol:

But as others have said, you have a good idea about the mods/power you are after. Exhaust, FMIC and a K&N air filter would be my first few mods to help the car perform alot better than standard.

BTW Welcome to SAU, you'll enjoy it here.

Nath

Edited by NathR32

I'm in the same situation really.

Think the best way to go is:

Panel filter

3" exhaust system with a split dump

Intercooler.

Not absolutely sure when you need to start looking at a safc but I think after exhaust+ intercooler you're really pushing the limits of the standard ecu will accept and it'll start to run rich.

after those few mods (exhaust and fmic) you will need some sort of upgrade as far as the computer goes. a safc or a replacement computer.

i did what you have done and a few other things such as a high flowed turbo and a boost controller etc and mine was running fairly rich so i would recommend upgrading the ecu in the near future.

just what happened to me and what i would recommend.

welcome to the land of money pits and of course SAU.

well obviously you will need one if you go boost controller,hi flow turbo and stuff. But the thing i just want to keep it simple not as hardcore. The thing is im going to go panel,fmic and exhaust with split dump. Ive searched with mixed opinions. Just wondering what is the limit of the stock ecu. I know you dont a safc or replacement ecu for a exhaust and panel if so all skylines would be doing so but i think the front mount is the final mod you can do without changing ecu. This is the perception I have gained after reading a couple of posts and this mechanic guy. Just want to know if this perception is the correct one or is there more to it.

You gain very little (<10rwkw) from just putting a FMIC on. The point of the FMIC is so you can turn up the boost more.

Basically no point in FMIC if you don't turn up the boost (although some may say the FMIC helps in summer but I doubt anyone just gets it for that alone).

You gain very little (<10rwkw) from just putting a FMIC on. The point of the FMIC is so you can turn up the boost more.

Basically no point in FMIC if you don't turn up the boost (although some may say the FMIC helps in summer but I doubt anyone just gets it for that alone).

A lot of people even say you don't need a FMIC with a stock turbo, even if you're boosting it.

12psi seems to be accepted as the maximum "safe" day to day boost on a stock turbo. Running on 12psi with a stock turbo some people have said their charge air is fine with the side mount cooler. I wouldn't do it but that's just me... a GTR cooler is cheap insurance.

3" exhaust from the turbo back, a frontmount will let you use the most out of the stock turbo. On a rb25 it should see 200rwkw comfortably I believe - which is enough for now if the car is still new to you.

The replacement filter will just make it whoosh more. If you're using a stock for stock replacement filter then you won't have to do anything else. If you're going to go for a pod filter then make sure you put it inside a box or a partition so it doesn't suck up hot air. And if you use either - don't use an oiled element.

Good luck.

geez, u guys get 200rwkw out of your cars easy

my s1 r33 was 150rwkw with exhaust, dump pipe and boost at 11psi

still only a bit over 190 with 12psi, fmic, full straight through exhaust, powerfc . .. . .

Yeah spooks, Yours sounds a little more realistic. 200rwkw is not very easy to acheive on the stock turbo. With all the gear you will be over 190 but for some reason the 200 proves illusive for most. I guess the thing to remember is that dynos are all over the place. On the same day your car could read 200rwkw at on place and 180rwkw at another place

Any way back to the question. All the stuff you have listed is fine, All of it will run on the stock ECU. However it will be much improved with the addition of a SAFC or other piggy back system

You won't get anywhwere near 200rwkw without leaning out your mixtures... you will see 10:1 a/f ratios at WOT without an SAFC or similar... an aftermarket cooler will have much less pressure drop than the stock one so you will be getting more airflow at roughly the same boost so its definately a good idea... just leave the boost under 10psi until you get some ecu tuning and you should be fine...

oh and if you ask me leave the dump pipe... I have over 200rwkw with the stock dump pipe/turbo... better spending the money elsewhere

Yeh well im definetly going to leave stock boost, im going exhaust and filter for performace and the fmic is more for safety and bling :P So I was hearing this set up left on the stock ecu will be fine will it without stuffing up my car?? I'll probs look into a safc later on but i would rather leave the electronic parts standard dont want to fool around too much with that stuff.

All the stuff you have said is more or less correct.

Recommended path for stage 1 mods:

1) Performance air intake (panel or CAI'd pod filter).

2) 3" Turbo back exhaust, upgrade to hi-flow cat.

3) FMIC

4) Boost controller to turn up boost.

That should see you to a tad less than 200rwkw.

200kw.....hmm what boost would he have to run to get that on stock turbo im guessing more then one bar of boost.

Ur mod list in ur sig has more mods then u stated and ur not even at 200kw....unless u up the boost more 15kw can be somewhat hard to get unless u go aftermarket ECU or get ur stock one tuned.....

Mate with those mods u would be getting about 150-160kw at the wheels on 12-13psi im guessing....

- Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I elongate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for?   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
×
×
  • Create New...