Installing New Speakers - Replace Front Or Rear

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Well for xmas my wonderful g/f has bought me a new Pioneer Headunit & 2 x 6" 3-ways to go with it..

Currently my R33 has an "AWESOME" stock tape deck and with it the stock speakers..

My dilemma is - which speakers do I replace first..

are the speakers exactly the same front and rear? currently i'm looking at replacing the front ones first - than later on if I can be bothered replace the rear ones..

what do people think? what have others done..

is there much of a difference between having them in the doors vs. on the rear parcel shelf..

ideas would be great!..

cheers people..

[4door_Sleeper]

Replace the front speakers (always)

The front speakers set the sound stage, the rears should just add some fill. In many top audio cars rear speakers are considered unnecessary.

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See that's what I was thinking as well..

Been talking to some of the guys at work everyone suggests looking at getting a set of 6x9" as they will be on special and I can get them installed at the same time...

Won't be running an amplifier - maybe at a later date..

[Links]

Just read this:

Speakers

The factory speakers in a Skyline were 6/6.5" (?) at the back, and a weird rectangular shape at the front. However, you can fit 6.5" speakers in both locations easily, you may need MDF spacers for clearance but it's a fairly easy job.

6x9s will fit not so easily, but still doable.

What do people think - will 6x9" fit - or should I get a set of spits for the front and put the 6.5" in the back?

[raz0r$harP.UK]

6x9s will fit if you make up a spacer. Just a matter of measuring clearances and adjusting to fit.

I'd probably run 6.5" all around, but if you are not going to be running a sub down the track, then some 6x9s would add some bass to your system. Check out this link from FHRX Studios for some discussion about 6x9s.

That being said, my brother fitted some 6x9s in the front of his R32 (because we had them lying around), and a few weeks later junked them for a nice set of 6.5" coaxials.

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Hmmm.. some food for thought.. at the moment I doubt i'll be running a sub which is why I was leaning towards the 6x9"s.. don't really want someone hacking up my rear parcel tray, if they can do it without too much of a hassle it'd be good

[Medium Dave]

6x9"s running off the head unit are no replacement for a sub, just run your 6"s in the front doors, disconnect your rear speakers, and save your pennies for a sub ( if you want one ) The old addage of do it right the first time really applies strongly with car audio, I have seen some shocking set-ups that cost in the long run.. Have fun

Cheers

[Links]

I'm more in favour of not getting a sub - and considering I can get 2 x 6"s for about $100 I might as well replace the current rears as well..

[Links]

Ok.. some further points..

I've had a chat with some people - they have recommended that I get some 2-ways (6")for the rear rather than 3-ways?

What is the main advantage of this?

[rocketboy]

Most 3-way 6" speakers are crap IMO. There is no way you can get a good tweeter,mid,mid-bass in a single 6" driver, which is what a good 3-way should consist of. Unfortunatley they usually come as 3 seperate speakers and are high end expensive units.

6" 3-ways you buy are generally super tweeter,tweeter,mid/bass. Which IMO is inferior to a good dedicated tweeter,woofer combo co-axial (tweeter mounted in middle of woofer).

Try to go for a good 2-way both front and back, preferably with an adjustable tweeter mount so you can swivel/aim the tweeters to get the best sound possible out of the factory locations. You can turn the rear speakers down via the headunit fader so most of the music comes from the front ( ya don't go to a concert and stand back to the stage! ). The rears are good for ambient feel, but should definatley be turned down a fair whack, when you have passengers you can just turn them up again.

R33 have 6" factory fronts and 6.5" rears, pretty sure thats right, somebody correct me if this is wrong. So you should be able to fit speakers in fairly easy.

Hope this is of some help.

[Links]

Cheers rocketboy - seems to be about the same as what most people have recommended..

I'll probably try and get a set of 2-ways to go in the back and fiddle around with the settings on the head-unit - it's got some nifty settings including running sub off the rear speaker wires rather than through an amp..

depending on the price of the splits when I go in - I might go for them or keep my 3-ways (all a matter of money)..

[Links]

Rather than starting a new topic..

had my stereo installed on last weekend (one before)..

when putting the drivers door panel back on the guys has made it develop a "wire" rattle - sounds like the lever arms for the door opening handle are rattling when going over bumps..

I've managed to get about 90% of the door interior off but i'm stuck in one part..

I can get the bit surrounding the opening handle off - that's easy.. also take all the screws off the bottom - and it's mostly free.. the bit I can't get free is the arm part with all the power window buttons are.. that whole section - there is one screw that I can take out but it is still caught near the hinge of the door end..

is there something i'm missing..

is there an extra screw that holds that bit down - it's in an R33 btw.

Edited January 9, 2006 by Links

[raz0r$harP.UK]

On the drivers side:

- unclip the door handle surround (use a knife if you need to to help prise it off)

- remove cap in the cup, and the screw underneath

- the bit with the window controls should just unclip with a bit of force

- three screws at the bottom of the door

- take off the trim piece

Sounds to me like it's the third step outlined above you're having trouble with? Only that one screw holding mine in, the rest are just plastic clips.

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yeah that's the one I was having trouble with - does it just pull out and up..

I'll try it out this week probably tonight - had all the other points done and it's was pretty much off - just couldn't get the window controls off..

i'm thinking the clear plastic lining wasn't put back on properly and is causing the metal rods to rattle when going over bumps.. can't tell until i've got the door off..

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Yeah it pulls up and off. It clips in towards the front of the door (ie under the power window controls etc) and it's usually easier if you can try to grip it from there and pull up.

Bit tricky but you'll get it eventually. Once it's out you can see the clips and it'll make it easier when you're taking it out next time.

[Links]

Awesome - cheers Razor - got it off last night - the bracket that's on the inside of the door that the little cup bits sits in was loose on 1 of the bolts and was rattling..

fixed it up - and also the gromets that the stereo guy managed to f**k up fixing and it's all good!!!..

there is 1 big clip right in the middle of that piece - hard fcuker to get as well..

anyways - cheers for the help..