Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The PFC ebc is good (varied duty cycle throughout the rpm to hold the target boost pressure), UNLESS your making silly amounts of power..

The use of an AVCR where you can have different boost levels in different gears is usefull to prevent wheel spin in the lower gears.

Edited by Cubes
umm.. isnt it the other way around ?

I would have to agree, just becuse the car is tuned for say 18psi, doesnt mean its not tuned for a lower boost setting. If its tuned for 18psi then it has to be tuned for everythign below it as well. ie 1-17psi

Mick

As you approach the higher load points the resolution becomes less.... As a result running a lower boost level that still uses the same load point will cause the afrs to be richer.

For example.. My Rb30DET running the vg30det turbo at 9-10psi uses the same load point as when its at 13psi.

Which is one benifit of the more expensive ecu's such as the Motec's and Autotronics.. More load points = finer tuning. :)

Edited by Cubes

That would throw the tune out even furthur.

Not being picky about numbers the higher the pressure the more heated the air is, resulting in less dense air + closer to the edge of detonation. Less ign. will have to be run on the higher boost resulting in less than optimal ign timing for the lower boost levels.

Edited by Cubes

also remembering boost is only a pressure rating, running 12psi and 24psi certainly doesnt mean the 24psi tune will flow double the amount of air. the powerfc dedides load points on airflow meter signal. so at 3400rpm on 12psi or 19psi it will still be reading the same load point as airflow meter says 3400mv (despite more pressure) as pressure and volume are two different things

i run a power fc in my s14 and also a greddy profec b boost controller

why ive done this is i dont know how to tune a computer so why have a hand controller when i bought my computer for less and i have a straight boost controller

my old school greddy profec b is the best controller around in my opinion. it is as basic as anything and i regularly have it on low boost rather than high boost. i think the whole throttle control by the right foot in theory is a great idea however it doesnt always work

with my car i like to run it on low boost knowing that i can nail it without it spinning my tyres to pieces

personally i think running a boost controller through a power fc controller is more effort than its worth

having used a stand alone boost controller and the powerfc one i think either is fine. set the highest safe boost you can run and use your foot to control the pedal. why woud u want low and hi boost? what on earth for? if you wanna go fast, floor it, if not soft pedal or medium and youll accelerate as quick as you want. if you have wheelspin when on boost then you need to sort out your tyre/suspension setup.

using different boost settings to control traction is hardly a good argument. you may as well put in regular unleaded instead of premium to limit wheelspin then

and your arguement over why have a hand controller? i dont get it.

the hand controller is a multipurpose unit, it can give you information, allow you to make informed decisions and adjust settings on the fly. if you dont know how to use it, learn.

Paul,

Your analogy is very poor. Using a boost controller to control traction in a high power car IS extremely usefull. Especially in second gear where you don't need 300+rwkw. The other option is to step up a turbine a/r size. Given the smaller a/r provides enough flow for the target power I would much rather have the option of using an EBC to control boost level in different gears. ESPECIALLY with a RB30DET that has such an insane hitting mid range traction is an issue.

A good condition R32/R33/R34 shouldn't have issues with wheel spin until over 250rwkw. Unless your a fag and running razor blades on stock black rims. ;)

Mine had wheelspin issues at 176rwkw..

Stuffed subframe bushes + a loose VLSD + the 3ltr doesn't help.

The 2.5ltrs come on and ramp up to peak power so much smoother than the 3ltrs. Comparing dyno sheets at the last dyno day illustrates this.

Edited by Cubes

whilst it may be poor i dont see (myself anyway) why you would want to run different boost settings. i would prefer to have the car setup for the highest safe pressure and have the handling sorted out correctly so that it will handle the power correctly. instead of using low/hi boost and gear judge settings

well, i filled up with bp fuel today that wasnt optimax (couldnt be bothered waiting for an optimax pump)

so, i just choose low boost option on pwfc and not worry about it until ived used up this tank of petrol

much easier than worrying about how much throttle to use

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...