Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can see how the novelty of being able to dial up boost would ware off very quickly. This would also save me $$ to spend on other things.

Say i buy the PFC without the boost solenoid then tune it to a "safe" PSI. What would be a "safe" level for my car as i have done no engine work. only FMIC, ZORST, POD FILTER. I've found 12PSI to be the most common answer but then occasionaly 14-15. Does anyone else with similar mods run the higher boost???

Ive got the PFC boost controller with 3 boost settings. On hot days i change to a softer boost setting. On cool days or when im out cruising with the boys, i select high which is 20psi. Ive got a an aggressive tune so with high boost i do see some knock (60+). On a hot day i would certainly hate to select high boost.

As far as in gear boosts variations, this would be a handy feature to some high powered cars. With my old 255/40/17 Sumo's this would have been nice in the first 2 gears. But i bought some Street R compound tyres and now i get full traction in any gear.

My 2 cents worth.

if you (or anyone) was able to get their airtemp sensor working you can use the air temp vs boost correction table in the powerfc, you can see these settings via datalogit. in fact theres a few tables for boost correction that you can't see on the hand controller which datalogit shows you. such a shame we cant get the airtemp working

please tell me who has it working on rb25det powerfc

I was referring to the rb20det pfc, as it uses the r32/r33 GTR power fc (just remapped by AP engineering) That is why it displays the air temp on the rb20 hc still.

I dont know if the rb25det displayes air temp on the hc, as i dont have a rb25 pfc.

Obviously the rb25 uses its own pfc version, not a remappped gtr item, so it wont have this option available.....

hey sorry, i knew rb20 has sensor display and works if you plug it onto the ecu. the rb25 ecu has this menu item as well, and all the tables and it just displays airtemp as ---. i tried to hook it up and fried my ecu doing it so thats why i was keen to hear from someone who has done it on rb25.

Ive got the PFC boost controller with 3 boost settings.  On hot days i change to a softer boost setting.  On cool days or when im out cruising with the boys, i select high which is 20psi.  Ive got a an aggressive tune so with high boost i do see some knock (60+).  On a hot day i would certainly hate to select high boost.

As far as in gear boosts variations, this would be a handy feature to some high powered cars.  With my old 255/40/17 Sumo's this would have been nice in the first 2 gears.  But i bought some Street R compound tyres and now i get full traction in any gear. 

My 2 cents worth.

Should i assume that uve done engine work to be running 20PSI?? that sounds like pain for stock internals. I would only look to have 2 boost settings if i set this up. id prob want 9PSI as low boost and 12PSI for high. i'd be too worried about doing damage if i went higher than 12.

Edited by GTS4dood

i believe this thread should be kept open for general apexi powerfc chit chat as there seems to be enough to warrant its own thread.

ive just noticed that nengun has listed the mainstream powerfc pro as discontinued and only ap engineering customers have acccess to pro options

> Please note: Recently Apexi have stopped producing a number of Pro Spec > PFC`s and H/Cs. Please do not purchase a Discontinued Product.

standard rb25det powerfc pro is no longer available, like the others

Anyone know how to brighten the lights up on it?  In the day light its very hard to read.

dont leave it in the sun, the screen will fade and just get worse, put it somwhere where a shadow casts on the screen

OK, there seems to be a fair few ppl out there that have the Power FC installed. Ive read a FAQ on here that the avg price for tuning is 300-500. im gettin quoted from 450-700. I live in newcastle. so im willing to go to sydney for example to get it tuned if someone can recommend a quality tuner at a good price. a 4wd dyno would be good too. but i can switch it to RWD. would there be much of a difference in the overall tuning???

most tuners are telling me to get a seperate boost controller i.e. AVC-R. im almost being warned off the boost controller kits that apexi make as an add-on for the power fc. why would this be as ive had ppl on this thread say that they are fine?

the apexi powerfc boost contorller kit is fine and works fine.

ive heard mixed reports about the avc-r. the avc-r is very expensive. the powerfc kit is half the cost and gives the same functionality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...