Dose Pipe Sutututu

https://modeautoconcepts.com/products/mhd-flex-fuel-analyzer-kit-for-s55-bmw-m3-f80-m4-f82-m2-competition-f87-can-enabled?variant=39721423896694 Makes it SOOOOOOOO easy, no wiring, no cutting/chopping, no need to even try hard. Putting a flex sensor into a shitbox Skyline on the other hand............... Me being me, moved the stupid thing 3x times.

From this comment, I'm assuming you're on the MHD platform. Put it this way, $1k is cheaper than putting a hole through the block.

In SAU fashion, thread digressed about 10 times lol. Back to post one, don't hook up the EBC like the OEM bleed setup. Block off the return to the intake pipe and just install the MAC valve between the boost source and actuator. Minor thread derail, go buy a Haltech Elite or Nexus S3 or R3, then convert to DBW.

Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.

Come on lad, missing a few zeros and * 0.6 lol

I dream of a day someone buys my R33 shit box and I never see it again. I will then buy a German shit box and post how it constantly uses tyres, fuel and how much more economical it is to operate.

There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day.

Let's be honest here @GTSBoy 250kW in a GTS-t would easily get walked by my a family SUV these days. 300kW is the sweet spot, fast enough to keep up with the modern German cars (not from a stand still), fun enough and the motor still can be stock/unopened. Realistically, 400kW is a good number. It's enough to give you cold sweats, still be very street able in terms of the power band (provided you're not an idiot and go single scroll and delete VCT) and only needs a very basic rebuild (or stock if you have a NEO motor). Anything more, it starts to be stupid.

Highlight that row, and a bit of trial and error. Try reducing it by 25% and see if it starts, if not, go the other way. On the newer Kebabtechs that table is in VE which makes it so much easier to calibrate.

maybe try something like this: Which cells are highlighted when you're trying to crank the car? AND is this issue only when the car is warm OR cold? If it's only when it's warm, then you need to throw more crank prime fuel into it, something like this:

Can you show us the Inj Dead Time table? When cranking, does the car start then dies without WOT? OR it's not even starting/catching at all? If it catches and dies, you may need to add more fuel to the Post-Start Enrichment table

Murica fk yeah

Post up your injector settings, and also your fuel cranking table. If it's in ms and not in VE, you're probably flooding the motor during crank.

Accurate

........... aint' that the truth.