Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SA Only!

Looking to take my car back to near on standard ready to sell as it never gets driven any more and i'd lose too much money selling it outright.

So for a lucky RB20 powered R32 owner i'm offering this to you, would much prefer a couple of minor motor mods on your rb20 at this price.

I owe no money on the car so therefore i'm in no rush to sell the car and am willing to take my time and be patient but in saying that i've priced the package up to sell not to dream.

Basically i'm looking at 2 options for now:

1.) Give me your motor, gearbox, clutch, tailshaft and $7500 and i'll give you my motor, gearbox, clutch and tailshaft. (highly recommended option)

2.) Give me your motor and $5500 and i'll give you my motor

Mods are as follows:

Fully rebuilt Rb30 (has less than 7000kms on clock)

R32 Rb25de head (non vvt), fresh. GTR valve springs. (new valve stem seals etc)

Cleaned and flow tested GTR injectors (600cc injectors at an extra cost)

Z32 AFM

Adjustable cam gears ('aerospeed')

Garret GT35/40 internal wastegate (ford xr6 turbo) With 15 psi actuator

Apexi AP Engineering power fc with hand controller

Custom reground GTR cams

Custom catch can (optional)

no BOV

modified engine mounts

Rb25 Gearbox (91000kms)

Triple plate OS Gieken clutch (1000hp)

Modified tailshaft (to suit rb25 gbox)

(Engine bay i've tried to make look as standard as possible to keep 'prying' eyes away)

Motor is currently making 250rwkw's @ 12psi as seen at last sau dyno day (Boostworx). All thats needed to see 300+rwkw's is the injectors i've given as an option and a boost controller. This is the cheapest way an R32 owner will see 300rwkw's reliably!

Before anyone asks, no this can't be made legal (in an R32) in the eyes of police/regency and that the reason my car isn't over the top and when you pop the bonnet on my car it looks like a stock rb20 to 'most' people, i've had this motor in my car for 2.5 years and haven't had an issue even when it was a daily driver.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219968-want-an-rb30det-in-your-r32/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
×
×
  • Create New...