Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Best option.

Sell z32's

Sell ecu

Get map like link or motech and don't worry about blowing a vac hose and be stranded to get raped by predators in the wild suburban streets.

Keep factory air box without hacking it up.

  • Like 2

The cleverest solution to this problem is;

  • Use ECU with MAP sensor, not AFM,
  • Take the guts out of buggered RB26 AFMs,
  • Install RB26 AFMs so they look like they're still used,
  • Wire up a circuit from the ECU through the (now unused) loom plugs of the AFMs so that the car will stall when they are unplugged.

This then makes it look perfectly stock, and will also pass the "functionality test" that the more educated among our law enforcement/revenue generating public servants might know to do to check if the AFMs are used by the ECU.

Basically I like the idea of popping my bonnet and it looking virtually standard to the untrained eye.

I had a fairly heavily modded R32 GTS-t with an RB30 twin cam and I was able to achieve this but I'm finding the task a little more difficult with my R32 GTR.

My mods aren't by any stretch crazy..............R34 GTR N1 turbos, Nistune ECU, Z32 AFM's, 650cc injectors, walbro fuel pump etc..............

Now the issue I'm having which I'm a bit annoyed at myself didn't click earlier is trying to bolt up the Z32 AFM's to the standard airbox (sourcing this was a nightmare in itself), naturally they flow more as they are larger in diameter and therefore in turn the bolt holes don't line up, its not as simple as just redrilling the holes as one of the connection points for the AFM to the standard airbox is recessed.

Basically I'm hoping that people have gone down the same path as me (trying to make the engine bay look standard) and have a relatively easy fix for me (adaptor perhaps?!)

Cheers in advance.

Don't complicate things.Just grab Nismo AFMs since you are running N1s. Easist way to go when everything is weighed up IMO. The re-tune on the Nistune would be a breeze to boot

  • Like 1

r35 GTR afms. You can buy housings for about $150AUD on ebay (check ebay UK too), then get a pair of sensors and pigtails. sensors are from any parts shop and the connectors themselves I ordered from Ballenger motorsports. but any place that does wiring bits will do it. I have 200usd in my whole set-up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...