Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

7 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

Agreed. I've seen a couple on SR20DET's and SR20VET's and they're running 360-390rwkw. Mostly to err massively on the side of safety and longevity.

Here is the latest iteration on the 9180 13B set up, WM50 upgraded and testing many parts, all in the search for durability, Power is easy but unicorn is a Turbo Rotary Mazda that actually lasts... drugracers and TA one lap wonders need not apply lol :P

FBI5yEC.jpg

n3L08bl.png

8f2IJxJ.jpg

mk0bLPu.jpg

  • Haha 1
19 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

I agree, it is similar to a GTX3076R with a larger turbine side, i.e 3576. (wheel is actually a little larger than a 35r wheel)

The question really is how much power does @ActionDan intend to track his car with.
350 all day? 7670 with room to spare.

7163 if 300 is fine for you. Still would consider external gating it due to what @MaximuSmurf mentioned earlier.

Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.

17 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.

7064 is still a good turbo!  the YB cosworth guys are over the moon for this... older tech 2L engines like sr20 and 3s seem to love the 7064 due to lower emap up top and easy to run external WG on twinscroll (compared to 7163)

4 hours ago, Full-Race Geoff said:

7064 is still a good turbo!  the YB cosworth guys are over the moon for this... older tech 2L engines like sr20 and 3s seem to love the 7064 due to lower emap up top and easy to run external WG on twinscroll (compared to 7163)

Haha I just recently saw a tuning post from a YB guy complaining about how rubbish the twin scroll 7064 is and that his old T3 was better.  I suspect very much it's a setup issue as I know the 7064 isn't rubbish, but still amusing

I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw.

Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.

 

5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw.

Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.

Your setup would have been great, if the motor was assembled properly ?

I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.

17 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.

Ports were mismatched to the gasket, valves ever so slightly kissed the pistons, low use motor but scoring on bearings....

I did manage to get the initial turbo acceleration up to 90,000rpm/sec on a 1/2 gear shift on the Datsun (instantly jumps to 5psi boost) with some basic tricks on normal driving closed throttle gear shift giving more turbine energy. But once this is consumed then its back to its normal 'slow' turbine accel rate, so it is what it is basically, just put it down to this engine type.

On 7/19/2018 at 10:20 PM, RICE RACING said:

Datsun in back ground..... needed a DICKASS full brake upgrade, bedding in brakes now :)

Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console?

If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app?

Thanks ?

 

@Topic:

My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal.

Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM.

Feels a little like running a silencer.

Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages.

Intake side of turbo looks normal, exhaust side would need downpipe removal (didn't do that yet).

Collegue mentioned it could be the spring in the wastegate actuator is either not preloaded correctly (screws would have to come lose?) or just can't hold the wastegate shut at low RPM. It has about 20k miles on it already, so who knows?

Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell.

Another thing to change would be the amount of blow off valves I have (yeah, you read that right) - I'm currently using the internal EFR blow off, as well as a HKS SSQV. Local supplier wondered how the hell we got that setup working and strongly suggested to remove one of the blow offs. Which will probably be the EFR blow off, not for technical reasons but mainly for the nicer sound of the HKS (form/sound follows function for me on this one).

 

Current spec list (no changes since the last mapping session till the problem presented itself some time ago):

RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket)
Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG
6boost exhaust manifold
Plazmaman intake manifold
(noname) big FMIC 
Apexi air intake
7xx cc Bosch injectors
LS2 coils
Walbro fuel pump
Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex)
custom 3" downpipe & exhaust
Link G4 ECU

 

May be someone wants to take a guess ?

Run a de-cat or test pipe as you yanks call them and yes delete one of BOVs. I suggest the gay SSQV. It's not The Fast and The Furious.

And yeah run a new actuator. Those BW are known to be lazy and somewhat useless.

2 hours ago, MotHot said:

My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal.

Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM.

Feels a little like running a silencer.

Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages.

Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell.

May be someone wants to take a guess ?

OK, in terms of exhaust noise vs diagnosing this kind of thing - even if the exhaust itself hasn't suffered a collapsed muffler or cat (worth investigating) the sound can change and hint at other issues.

- Suddenly louder can mean the wastegate is jammed open for some reason, or had some kind of mechanical failure.  Remember, it leaks exhaust past the turbo which will be the most effective muffler in your exhaust

- Suddenly quieter on full boost could mean your wg is not opening as much, or at all.   This could suggest a boost leak or something along those lines - meaning your boost control is going full effort to try and hit target boost, and there isn't as much (or any) exhaust being bypassed around the turbine... DEFINITELY something you want to sort if it is happening.

You shouldn't need a 4-port mac valve for a 2port actuator.  You can actually use two 3ports plumbed to push and pull to similar effect, as well.  

 

 

you can also run with with a 3 port just like a normal single port gate aswell (lower port open to atmo), while you're waiting on parts, and at least you will have a newer/better(maybe?) actuator on there.

Speaking of that I need to figure out why i was getting 4 port issues with mine, ramp rate too fast etc full boost only at a low duty cycle % and next time i drove the car after the tune it was spiking past 2 bar. Bit of a shame as i feel that the 3 port certainly is doughier down low.

 

Also, as much as i miss the the standard gtr BOV's, the integrated BOV with a 3.5" stainless intake and pod filter makes all of the ridiculous noises one could ever want anyway

4 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

you can also run with with a 3 port just like a normal single port gate aswell (lower port open to atmo), while you're waiting on parts, and at least you will have a newer/better(maybe?) actuator on there.

Speaking of that I need to figure out why i was getting 4 port issues with mine, ramp rate too fast etc full boost only at a low duty cycle % and next time i drove the car after the tune it was spiking past 2 bar. Bit of a shame as i feel that the 3 port certainly is doughier down low.

 

Also, as much as i miss the the standard gtr BOV's, the integrated BOV with a 3.5" stainless intake and pod filter makes all of the ridiculous noises one could ever want anyway

Ooops yeah, I meant to say the 2x 3port is an alternative to a 4port BUT you can also run a single 3 port.

We are actually going to test 2x 3ports and a dual port actuator on the EFR7064/RB25 combo I tune because it's annoying having what seems like a clear amount of flow headroom but an internal gate setup which just won't stay shut.  

16 hours ago, MotHot said:

Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console?

If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app?

Thanks ?

Yo, Thomas.

It is a Life Racing D5 dash unit, I use them in all my cars running full F88/S8 or higher LR/Syvecs ECU's, great piece with my own bespoke screens configurations etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...