Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive got a R32 ball bearing T3 turbo for sale that i no longer need.

its has no shaft play other than the natural little bit of forward to back (2mm) that you get with ball bearing core.

absolutely NO side to side shaft play, ie a PERFECT condition turbo.

only done 65,000k's on stock boost for 60,000 of that, and 10pound for the other 5,000

will NOT be dissapointed

absolutely NO cracks at all in this turbo, ie none on the exhaust housing near the wheels like most T3's have, and none at the wastegate port.

comes with actuator aswell.

in SE melbourne suburbs, and you can have a look at it before you buy.

looking for $320 ono as i want to sell asap.

reason for selling is that i purchased this for an mx6 conversion, but i have picked up a manifold to suit a wrx turbo.

here are some pictures of it, note it has a slightly polished compressor housing!

p10100017bf.jpg

p10100099ev.jpg

p10100021rh.jpg

p10100034lv.jpg

will bolt up directly to standard manifold not a problem!

contact me via email on [email protected]

or pm me.

or call me on 0423 054 117

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96256-r32-ball-bearing-turbo/
Share on other sites

2mm is A LOT of play dude...

you sure it still works!?!?!

i know there is sposed to be a tiny bit of play but its sposed to be like 0.5mm

u on drugs mate? 1-2mm is normal for any turbo, by no means is it alot

i thought ball bearing is standard on most if not ALL RB series turbo.

as was 10psi....coz thats teh wastegate actuator is rated at.

there should be any in and out for ball bearing with no fluid ..... far as i know. my r31 turbo is ball bearing ..has no in out or any side to side and has done nearly 175,000kms

i thought ball bearing is standard on most if not ALL RB series turbo.

as was 10psi....coz thats teh wastegate actuator is rated at.

there should be any in and out for ball bearing with no fluid ..... far as i know.  my r31 turbo is ball bearing ..has no in out or any side to side and has done nearly 175,000kms

dude they are ceramic turbos on rb series not ball bearing ?

there ceramic ballbearing turbo's.on r32 and so on.

what the hell are u on about?

as merlin and a few others have already said.. stock R32, R33 and R34 turbos are ALL ceramic NOT ball bearing.

wtfs a ceramic ball bearing turbo?

why do you think the most common upgrade is TO a BB turbo like the VG30?

most of the rb turbos ARE ball bearing. then you have the occasional one that has cooling fins in between the two housings that are bush bearing.

that turbo has no cooling fins and is therefore ball bearing

by ceramic people mean that the rear wheel of the turbo is ceramic and thats why you cant run more than 1 bar without the wheel shooting off.

ceramic has nothing to do with if its ball bearing or not.

far out, some people shoot there mouth off without having any idea. All the r31 rb20's were bush bearing aswell as the series 1 r32 rb20's series 2 R32's and onwards are all ball bearing and all have ceramic exhaust wheels i believe standard!

yes sorry... i take that back and apologize... VG30s have a steel wheel which is why most people upgrade to em... unlike the ceramic RB20/25 Turbos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...